120v outlet replacement

[On The Fly]

This is probably one of the most intimidating projects to undertake because the reinstallation of the wiring is a major pain without the three hundred dollar tool. But as I now understand, how did we ever repair anything prior to YouTube!
I watched the video where a C-Clamp was recommended and another video where the author recommended removing the attachment clips from the old switch. I pushed the wiring in place with a flathead screw driver, placed the rear plastic (w/o) clips into place. Sandwiched the switch with 1x2 scrape lumber and smashed it together with the c-clamp.
After turning off the power to the outlet, this was a 15-20 min job

[Country Campers]

Does the clips not hold the 2 parts together?

Brian

[NoPeeking]

I agree, this one of the most PIA repairs one can undertake. You need to sandwich the two halves of the outlet together which splices(?) the wires to the box (and not break the super brittle plastic). The theory is simple, the practice not so much. I, too, used two blocks of wood and a C-clamp and still had to use my 'emergency' words.

Mike

[On The Fly]

Does the clips not hold the 2 parts together?

Yes the clips hold the parts together. Snap the clips off the broken outlet and than after the wires are pressed in replace with the new. It just makes for an easier install if the clips are not in your way while pressing the parts together.

[Yoda]

This is probably one of the most intimidating projects to undertake because the reinstallation of the wiring is a major pain without the three hundred dollar tool. But as I now understand, how did we ever repair anything prior to YouTube!
I watched the video where a C-Clamp was recommended and another video where the author recommended removing the attachment clips from the old switch. I pushed the wiring in place with a flathead screw driver, placed the rear plastic (w/o) clips into place. Sandwiched the switch with 1x2 scrape lumber and smashed it together with the c-clamp.
After turning off the power to the outlet, this was a 15-20 min job

Interesting
Question
Could you have used a shallow old work box and std outlet like is used in residential construction?

Keith

[On The Fly]

Interesting
Question
Could you have used a shallow old work box and std outlet like is used in residential construction?

I know that the shallow box might work in cabinetry but of course the two that have broken in my 303 RLS, one ceiling and one bathroom wall do not have the space that would accommodate a box.
All the photos of the broken outlets show that the corners always fatigue and fail. Maybe its better to have the plastic fail and not stress the thin walls and roof material until it fails or splits. I'm just trying to present a positive aspect of all the time spent on these minor fixes. I just hope I remember the installation for the next replacement.

[NoPeeking]

I think root cause of failure is the (RV) box is not secured to any structure... only a back-side tab on the box that turns outward to grab the thin wall/ceiling material. Coupled with repeated plugging/unplugging of components causes flex in the brittle box face and failure. I toyed with replacing the broken OE box with a more conventional shallow box, but couldn't figure how how to secure it to the thin wall. I'm interested in what others might suggest for repair/replacement as I have a second outlet that has (essentially) shattered.

Mike

[tortuga]

on various rigs over the years i have replaced outlets and switches by using cut in rework boxes and screw terminal replacements. no loose push in connections. in one case on a forest river i had to connect three r
romex leads and add a pigtail to connect an outlet that was just loose connections which affected several downstream outlets.

[Country Campers]

I have also replaced receptacles in our RV with old work boxes, shallow or deep depending on the application, and have had no more issues with dropped power. The factory receptacles are junk, pure an simple. I realize that there are code requirements for each type of receptacle but there are also safety and PITA requirements that I live by.

Brian

[ncitro]

Same as Brian I've replaced all of mine with residential old work boxes and residential receptacles and have not had a failure sense. I have the added confidence of being able to plug in high amp draw appliances with confidence in the connection behind the outlet.

[Lonestar]

Same as Brian I've replaced all of mine with residential old work boxes and residential receptacles and have not had a failure sense. I have the added confidence of being able to plug in high amp draw appliances with confidence in the connection behind the outlet.

After reading this and other posts, I'm getting a little concerned about the way these receptacles are wired. I've got 2 that are use for high current uses, one for the microwave and one that we run the coffee maker and toaster oven on. For safety reasons would you proactively replace these with "real" outlets before the fail?

[ncitro]

After reading this and other posts, I'm getting a little concerned about the way these receptacles are wired. I've got 2 that are use for high current uses, one for the microwave and one that we run the coffee maker and toaster oven on. For safety reasons would you proactively replace these with "real" outlets before the fail?

I would but they're probably ok. I've never actually had one fail from current draw, I just don't like the connection. All mine failed by physically cracking.

[TucsonJim]

Over the years, there has been a lot of debate on this forum and other pages regarding the code requirements for electrical wiring. Here is a basic run down on the requirements.

RV's get their requirements from the RV Industry Association (RVIA).
RVIA calls out the National Electrical Code (NEC)
The NEC is maintained by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), and the document is listed as NFPA 70.

NFPA 70, paragraph 334.30 requires that cables (wires) be fastened to framing members within 12 inches of outlet box. The RV style outlets have a clamping function which meets the requirements of the code. But as we know, these outlets are not the most well designed and suffer from poor quality. If you elect to use residential style boxes and outlets, make sure you secure the cable within 12" of the box. It may become important if you were to ever suffer a fire that was caused by your wiring.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

i guess one could secure the box using a https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...5041/206415713 to assist with the thin material.
Double check the thickness of the material it goes through as I seem to remember there may have been an issue with the boss that sticks off the back.

[Kathy&Jim_Imagine]

WOW! Something else to add to the list..... Not a fan of these outlets. Don't like the connection to the wire. Remind me of Scotchlok's in the way they contact the conductor. Nothing like a good strong screw post connection.