Suitable Substitutions for Molex Connectors

[Yoda]

On another site I read a post on having spare Moles connectors - just in case.

Question - Is GD still using them or have the switched over to Wago connectors? Wago indicates thier connectors are suitable for either solid copper or stranded wire.. My thought is if the Molex goes bad use the single Wago for each wire and then heat shrink tube over each.

Another option might be crimp bulb connectors with appropriate water proofing. I don't think wire nuts would be suitable.

I don't want to lead anyone astray if a Molex issue comes up.

Thoughts?

Keith

[ncitro]

As far as I know they are still using the Molex connectors. I replaced mine with ones similar to these, overkill but I had them laying around from my dads boat dock I worked on a while ago:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-...BHdE6QA-oz3R4s

I would think WAGO connectors with heat shrink should be fine, if you stay within the current rating.

[Country Campers]

I purchased a few of these when the Molex recall came out a few years ago so I had them on hand when I went in to the under belly, FX Junction Box Waterproof IP68 2 Way Plug Line M20 Coaxial Cable Connector Wire Range 5 to 12mm Outdoor External Electric Power Cord Boxes: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement My Molex connectors were fine so I did not use these. I think they would be a good alternative to the Molex.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I would just cut, butt splice and silicone/heat shrink. I'm not concerned about ease of slide removal? Would rather have a more positive/waterproof connection.

[Jlawles2]

Scott'n'Wendy I believe the issue with butt splicing is the romex solid wire side. I'd probably crimp and solder that side to ensure it's a solid connection.

[Cate&Rob]

I replaced my underbelly Molex connectors (one of which was badly corroded) with high quality extension cord replacement ends (Similar to Neil’s link in post 2). Made sure that I secured these up high where they would stay dry . . . and they have been secure for years.

Rob

[TucsonJim]

When I was performing the recall on my Reflections Molex connectors, I found some of them were poorly installed/faulty. I replaced them with water proof boxes that I mounted to a piece of exterior plywood along one of the floor cross members:

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Scott'n'Wendy I believe the issue with butt splicing is the romex solid wire side. I'd probably crimp and solder that side to ensure it's a solid connection.

You can crimp solid wire.

[Lonestar]

I purchased a few of these when the Molex recall came out a few years ago so I had them on hand when I went in to the under belly, FX Junction Box Waterproof IP68 2 Way Plug Line M20 Coaxial Cable Connector Wire Range 5 to 12mm Outdoor External Electric Power Cord Boxes: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement My Molex connectors were fine so I did not use these. I think they would be a good alternative to the Molex.

Brian

Not necessarily related to the recall, but where are Molex connectors that may most likely need to be replaced found in the trailers?

[ncitro]

Not necessarily related to the recall, but where are Molex connectors that may most likely need to be replaced found in the trailers?

Usually its the ones under the coroplast because they get wet. The recall was to move them up out of the way of any standing water. They should be in pairs, one under the coroplast before the slide out to transition from solid Romex to stranded SO cord in the slide, and then one inside the slide to transition back to solid Romex.

[Yoda]

Not necessarily related to the recall, but where are Molex connectors that may most likely need to be replaced found in the trailers?

You slide layout is similar to mine. The Moles is used to transition from solid wire120V romex to flexible wiring. and back at the other end. Look under your unit where the power goes into the slide (probably rear drivers side). One molex will be inside the frame above the coroplast where the wiring exits the trailer belly. The second one will probably be behind the fridge. I have a gas /electric and it is on the wall, left side, inside the lower vent. Yours may be different, maybe under the dinette seat next to the fridge

Now if your fridge is 12v and there are no 120v receptacles on the dinette slide, it is possible you wont have them.

Could be wrong, but the real experts will be by soon.
Keith

[Lonestar]

You slide layout is similar to mine. The Moles is used to transition from solid wire120V romex to flexible wiring. and back at the other end. Look under your unit where the power goes into the slide (probably rear drivers side). One molex will be inside the frame above the coroplast where the wiring exits the trailer belly. The second one will probably be behind the fridge. I have a gas /electric and it is on the wall, left side, inside the lower vent. Yours may be different, maybe under the dinette seat next to the fridge

Now if your fridge is 12v and there are no 120v receptacles on the dinette slide, it is possible you wont have them.

Could be wrong, but the real experts will be by soon.
Keith

I have gas/electric fridge and no built in dinette. I'll check both of them but I don't think I've ever had water standing in the underbelly. Good to know in case I ever have AC voltage issues with slide or fridge. I'm in the camp of soldering and sealing.