Tank monitoring

[applewpb]

Howard, i can only direct you to the Safiery install manual: https://www.safiery.com/victron-gx-tank-140. It explains the voltage requirements for the ultrasonic tank sensors I am using in my install. Forget about 24v, it is not needed in my application, and is only provided to poets 3 and 4 directly from the Victron Tank 140. please see “2.2.1. Power supply”, page 3 on the Tank 140 installation manual for a detailed explanation. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...ank_140-en.pdf
I need to supply 12v power to my 4 ultrasonic tank sensors, and my drawing indicates how I plan to accomplish that. And I was told by Bruce from Safiery that I was following the proper procedures as outlined in their install manual.

[howson]

applewpb

I see it now! All four sensors are powered from Channel 1 and 2. The Safiery manual does show the Ultrasonic Tank Sensor requires 12v. The internal power supply (24V) is not utilized at all.

Thanks for the clarification--I knew I was missing something. I'll be very interested in reading your install posts and usage experience.

Howard

[applewpb]

Glad to help out, I know the manuals are vague at times, and I feel I am the first to try this, so I will definitely keep you posted as I complete the install.

Mark

[bellis]

applewpb

I see it now! All four sensors are powered from Channel 1 and 2. The Safiery manual does show the Ultrasonic Tank Sensor requires 12v. The internal power supply (24V) is not utilized at all.

Thanks for the clarification--I knew I was missing something. I'll be very interested in reading your install posts and usage experience.

Howard

applewpb Want to make sure I understand the above since I am going to be right behind you.....12V power into the GX Tank 140 via the power spot providers 12V power to all 4 channels over 12V?

[howson]

.....12V power into the GX Tank 140 via the power spot providers 12V power to all 4 channels over 12V?

No!

The 12v input powers channels 1 and 2. 3 and 4 have the internal 24V supply. Look again at applewpb 's diagram (took me twice, too). He's powering all four sensors off of the 12v that will come out of channels 1 and 2. Each sensor's data input (not power) goes to the respective channel.

[applewpb]

Hey Guys
Just a slight update; I found that one of my sensors was DOA and of course it had to be the one I was trying to use for my fresh water tank so I wasted 1/2 a day trying to see what I did wrong. Good news though, I was able to power all of the sensors from the 12v ext in, from my battery, to ports 1 and 2. Connected the power + cable from 2 sensors to Vout on port one, and repeated the same on port 2. Connected the other two wires from each sensor (GND- and sensor input) to the corresponding inputs on the Tank 140. I have attached a screenshot of the three sensors supplying input to the CCGX.
The other thing I learned, the blue led on the sensor initially stays solid indicating it has power. Once it detects liquid, it will begin to pulse slowly on and off and stay that way as long as it detects liquid. It takes about 5-10 seconds for the change from solid to pulsing to happen. Just some things I had to discover on my own. I knew I had a problem with the first one I tried when the next one went from solid to pulsing almost immediately.
So, my drawing is how I am doing the install and I will let you know if anything changes. The first image is the three sensors connected and working using 12v from 1-2 on Tank 140, second image is the Tank 140 display on my CCGX

[bellis]

No!

The 12v input powers channels 1 and 2. 3 and 4 have the internal 24V supply. Look again at applewpb 's diagram (took me twice, too). He's powering all four sensors off of the 12v that will come out of channels 1 and 2. Each sensor's data input (not power) goes to the respective channel.

Ha! I am confused then...So....12V in to the Vin; and then the Vout from Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 powers all 4 sensors?

Hey Guys
Just a slight update; I found that one of my sensors was DOA and of course it had to be the one I was trying to use for my fresh water tank so I wasted 1/2 a day trying to see what I did wrong. Good news though, I was able to power all of the sensors from the 12v ext in, from my battery, to ports 1 and 2. Connected the power + cable from 2 sensors to Vout on port one, and repeated the same on port 2. Connected the other two wires from each sensor (GND- and sensor input) to the corresponding inputs on the Tank 140. I have attached a screenshot of the three sensors supplying input to the CCGX.
The other thing I learned, the blue led on the sensor initially stays solid indicating it has power. Once it detects liquid, it will begin to pulse slowly on and off and stay that way as long as it detects liquid. It takes about 5-10 seconds for the change from solid to pulsing to happen. Just some things I had to discover on my own. I knew I had a problem with the first one I tried when the next one went from solid to pulsing almost immediately.
So, my drawing is how I am doing the install and I will let you know if anything changes. The first image is the three sensors connected and working using 12v from 1-2 on Tank 140, second image is the Tank 140 display on my CCGX

I can't remember where I saw it....Safeiry website or manual or elsewhere...but somewhere he, Bruce, gives the light codes or blink codes if you will. If I remember I will post it.

[applewpb]

Ha! I am confused then...So....12V in to the Vin; and then the Vout from Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 powers all 4 sensors?

Yes, per my drawing. You will only get 24v out from 3-4

I can't remember where I saw it....Safeiry website or manual or elsewhere...but somewhere he, Bruce, gives the light codes or blink codes if you will. If I remember I will post it.

Safiery website says solid blue getting power, flashing blue detected liquid and working. One of mine only has power, not flashing. Bruce says I have it installed wrong, but I have the other three working...go figure.

[bellis]

Safiery website says solid blue getting power, flashing blue detected liquid and working. One of mine only has power, not flashing. Bruce says I have it installed wrong, but I have the other three working...go figure.

Is he going to allow swap of the DOA unit or is it going to cost $125 in shipping?

[applewpb]

So, I completed. the install on the two grey tanks and the black tank. Everything appears the be functioning normally, but I need to put some water into the grey tanks to see how accurate I can get the sensors. I want to add 5 gallons at a time to see how it affects the readings from the sensors, starting from a somewhat empty tank.
Safiery is not being too helpful with the defective sensor swap. Bruce insists if its getting power it should work, but I used the same testing method with each sensor, and all but one worked as expected. My testing method was to use a 3/4 full 1 gallon water jug and some KY jelly. I put KY on the sensors, connected each sensor to the tank 140, and placed them one at a time against the water jug. Each sensor went from solid blue LED to a slow flashing LED; when you get your sensors, try it. The same thing happens when you mount the sensors to the tank with the epoxy.
I should state that all but one sensor worked exactly as described, and I tried more than once to get it to work...no luck. Here is a picture from my CCGX of the tank sensors working:


I am waiting for the new sensor, and install it on the fresh water tank. Also, dropping the coroplast by yourself is truly a "PITA". Just saying!!

Mark

[howson]

Safiery is not being too helpful with the defective sensor swap. Bruce insists if its getting power it should work...

Not a favorable customer service testimony. Bruce's response could be filed under, "Really? Gee, thanks for that insight..." Of course the sensor should work with power applied. Since it doesn't that's why you're contacting him.

[OffToHavasu]

I wonder if it is possible to get these sensors to work with the "traditional" monitors.

[Country Campers]

A trick to the coroplast , use some spring clamps or large binder clips to hold the coroplast when re-installing or removing. Worked well for me to realign the holes and to keep it in place and not on my head. Lots of clamps made it much easier , yes I did mine by myself.

Brian

[Cate&Rob]

A trick to the coroplast , use some spring clamps or large binder clips to hold the coroplast when re-installing or removing. Worked well for me to realign the holes and to keep it in place and not on my head. Lots of clamps made it much easier , yes I did mine by myself.

Brian

A method that I use is a 2x4 clamped at its centre to a rolling floor jack. This gives infinitely adjustable lift and can be easily moved along as you refasten the coroplast to the frame rails. Don't let yourself refasten the coroplast "close" to where the bolt hole was before . . . this will only get worse as you move along. Figure out where you have to push/pull/lift to get each hole exactly lined up with where it was before.

Rob

[ThePowells]

I used a 2X4 and one hand bar clamps and walked the 2X4 down the frame rails as I progressed.