The switch above the Power Distribution Panel as shown below is what this post references.
This topic is the culmination of returning the camper to full operation after the failure of the AMSolar Smart Phase Selector (SPS) in my 2019 315RLTS. The failure is documented in the thread linked below.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This modification was accomplished building on the work of TucsonJim and his Inverter, Transfer Switch, and Breaker Panel Modifications - Unique Solutions thread at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ique-solutions I believe Jim got this idea from @Cate&Rob as Rob used a similar type of switch on his (previous) boat.
I’d also like to thank gbkims for his counsel and also Jlawles2 for his inputs in the “hum” thread.
PURPOSE
This documentation spans two posts (due to picture limitations) and is verbose (for a forum thread), but necessary to accomplish the purpose which is to document:
If you quote this post, please edit to just the pertinent info you’re referencing!
Why
Due to how Grand Design wired my 2019 Reflection 315RLTS there were circuits on two different main breakers that I wanted to power off the inverter. In early 2019 the best solution to this problem appeared to be the SPS.
During the project of installing the Blue Sea switch, the circuit breakers were rearranged in the Power Distribution Panel. This ended up being quite easy to do…but still not a perfect solution as there may be occasions where I want to run the Living Room Air Conditioner’s fan off the inverter. The Blue Sea switch is still needed to meet my requirement.
How It Works w/Schematics
The Blue Sea comes with a faceplate labeled Shore, Off, and Gen. These labels don’t reflect how the switch works in my setup, so the labels were changed to 50A, Off, and (not) 50A. Below is a picture of the setup in the camper as of 9 May 21.
When the Blue Sea switch is set to 50A the assumption is the camper is connected to a 50A outlet so the Line 1 (Hot) and Line 2 (Hot)circuits have a separate 120v/50A leg from a grid (shore) connection.
When the Blue Sea switch is set to not 50A the assumption is the camper is connected to a 30A or 15A outlet; or the camper is not connected to any power source (120vAC provided exclusively by the inverter).
What Was Learned During Switch Installation
Using the switch for the neutrals was unnecessary. I could have used a Blue Sea 9011 switch (one less set of contacts) and then a bus bar for the neutrals.
On the Blue Sea switch, there is a metal clip that bridges contacts 2 and 4, 6 and 8, and 10 and 12. Internally pin 4 is connected to pin 3 (or 1), pin 8 to pin 5 (or 7), and pin 12 to 9 (or 11).
The Multiplus, when turned off, shorts the neutral and hot lines together. (There’s no power so no harm done). Since I had power off when checking the switch for proper operation (using a multimeter) this “short” drove me nuts until I figured out what was happening.
This topic is the culmination of returning the camper to full operation after the failure of the AMSolar Smart Phase Selector (SPS) in my 2019 315RLTS. The failure is documented in the thread linked below.
- Smart Phase Selector Hum (Impending Failure?) at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ending-failure
- See Victron Inverter and Battle Born Batteries in a 315RLTS at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...s-in-a-315rlts
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This modification was accomplished building on the work of TucsonJim and his Inverter, Transfer Switch, and Breaker Panel Modifications - Unique Solutions thread at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ique-solutions I believe Jim got this idea from @Cate&Rob as Rob used a similar type of switch on his (previous) boat.
I’d also like to thank gbkims for his counsel and also Jlawles2 for his inputs in the “hum” thread.
- @bertsch (Brian), and OffToHavasu (Curtis) are in the “penalty box” as their solution was for me to upgrade to the Multiplus II. (I’m kidding, of course.) I think ncitro (Neil) will agree an upgrade is not going to happen anytime soon! (On the replacement topic I’m serious.)
PURPOSE
This documentation spans two posts (due to picture limitations) and is verbose (for a forum thread), but necessary to accomplish the purpose which is to document:
1) Why?
2) How it Works with Schematics
3) What Was Learned During Switch Installation
4) Process and Items Used
5) What I’d Do Differently
2) How it Works with Schematics
3) What Was Learned During Switch Installation
4) Process and Items Used
5) What I’d Do Differently
If you quote this post, please edit to just the pertinent info you’re referencing!
Why
Due to how Grand Design wired my 2019 Reflection 315RLTS there were circuits on two different main breakers that I wanted to power off the inverter. In early 2019 the best solution to this problem appeared to be the SPS.
- A sub-panel would only power a subset of outlets so that option didn't work for me.
- There are inverters that appear to pass and/or power two 50A circuits, but none of the options in 2019 provided Power Assist (inverter aids shore power to meet demand) to both circuits simultaneously when on limited shore power or inverter only. This includes the Victron--thus the need for the SPS.
- See https://shop.pkys.com/powerassist-demo or https://youtu.be/Odo6LNSjykQ for info on Victron’s Power Assist mode.
- Jim's trailer and the components he uses are different since his converter and inverter are two separate components. Make sure to read his document and compare to this thread to fully understand.
- Gene posted a schematic in the "hum" thread that shows yet another way to wire the switch to the Victron, so check out the other thread, too.
During the project of installing the Blue Sea switch, the circuit breakers were rearranged in the Power Distribution Panel. This ended up being quite easy to do…but still not a perfect solution as there may be occasions where I want to run the Living Room Air Conditioner’s fan off the inverter. The Blue Sea switch is still needed to meet my requirement.
- See Circuit Breaker Map (Mod from OEM) - 2019 315RLTS at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...m-2019-315rlts
How It Works w/Schematics
The Blue Sea comes with a faceplate labeled Shore, Off, and Gen. These labels don’t reflect how the switch works in my setup, so the labels were changed to 50A, Off, and (not) 50A. Below is a picture of the setup in the camper as of 9 May 21.
- (not) 50A is symbolized by the line above the blue 50A label and is referenced in this thread as not 50A.
- Note that if the inverter is turned off (or in Charger only mode) no power is available in the camper on the Line 1 (Hot) circuit regardless of Blue Sea’s switch setting. The Victron Multiplus passes 50A shore power but it must be on to do so.
When the Blue Sea switch is set to 50A the assumption is the camper is connected to a 50A outlet so the Line 1 (Hot) and Line 2 (Hot)circuits have a separate 120v/50A leg from a grid (shore) connection.
- Line 1 (Hot) will still work with the inverter if shore power is not connected with the switch in the 50A position, but none of the circuits on Line 2 (Hot) will have power.
When the Blue Sea switch is set to not 50A the assumption is the camper is connected to a 30A or 15A outlet; or the camper is not connected to any power source (120vAC provided exclusively by the inverter).
- If connected to 50A shore power and in the not 50A switch position, the Line 2 (Hot) circuits will not have power.
What Was Learned During Switch Installation
Using the switch for the neutrals was unnecessary. I could have used a Blue Sea 9011 switch (one less set of contacts) and then a bus bar for the neutrals.
On the Blue Sea switch, there is a metal clip that bridges contacts 2 and 4, 6 and 8, and 10 and 12. Internally pin 4 is connected to pin 3 (or 1), pin 8 to pin 5 (or 7), and pin 12 to 9 (or 11).
- Why is this important to know? If a wire is connected to the bridged side but not the contact side, the metal clip “bridge” doesn’t always make a good contact. I spent many hours troubleshooting why power wasn’t passing on Line 2 (Hot) when the lug was connected to pin 6 (and nothing was connected to pin 8).
- When I moved Line 2 (Hot)’s wire from 6 to 8 it worked perfectly.
The Multiplus, when turned off, shorts the neutral and hot lines together. (There’s no power so no harm done). Since I had power off when checking the switch for proper operation (using a multimeter) this “short” drove me nuts until I figured out what was happening.
- Keep in mind that the only way power passes through the Multiplus is with it on, there’s no issues even though the neutral and black hot are shorted when it’s off.
- Why does Victron do this?My guess is to remove any transients or capacitor-stored energy in the circuit as a safety measure.
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