I completed modifications to the electrical system consisting of:
1. Two Renogy 100amp-hr lithium batteries.
2. 2000w Renogy Inverter
3. 20a DC-DC charger
4. Watchdog 30amp
5. Homebrew transfer switch
6. Moved all DC wires/circuits/fuses from the frame to a fuse panel in the storage pass-thru.
7. Upgraded the converter to a lithium capable one, WF-8955LIS-MBA
Here is the electrical schematic of what I did (see updated diagram in later post!):
Here are some photos of the install:
Discussion:
The transfer switch uses two relays - one to keep the shore power hot and neutral separate from the inverter's hot and neutral, and another one to disconnect the converter while on inverter power. Coincidentally, the electric theater seats are powered from this same circuit breaker, so no need to worry if they are on when on inverter power. The relays are:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXWZP3R
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWIKF2A
In the 2500RL, the power distribution system is in the wall between the bath and bedroom, at the floor. I was able to fish a couple 10-2 NM-WG wires from under the sink to the little enclosed box (universal docking station) in the storage pass-through. I wanted to bring the shore power into the storage area so that I could install a hard-wired surge protector. I then routed it back to the distribution panel via the transfer relay.
I intentionally used the normally closed contacts of the relays for shore power operation, with the relay coils becoming active when the inverter is activated. I decided the small power drain is not a big battery penalty, since most of the time when in storage or in hook-ups at a campground the relays will be "idle". Most of the inverter use will simply be to make coffee or use the microwave without having to start a generator when dry camping. The remote on/off/monitor switch for the inverter is in the bathroom wall, a relatively easy location to fish the wire to. I did notice that the inverter "stumbles" a little on initial power up, meaning I hear a couple clicks/rattles of the relays before they "hard" engage. The inverter instructions say to let it power up for a few seconds prior to adding any load, and this is probably why. I could add some sort of delay relay in, but probably won't bother unless a good reason presents itself.
The battery disconnect actually, well, disconnects the battery! I did not like, but understand why, the factory design has so much junk still running even when disconnected. I want to know that all power is off. Someone mentioned in another thread regarding the break-away switch. I debated keeping this on full time, but ruled it out. One will not connect the trailer without battery power since the tongue jack is electric. I could make arguments either way on this one. I removed the factory disconnect switch and labeled it as "not used".
The wires that were down on the frame on the circuit breaker were fished back up through the hole they went down through initially, also in the docking area box. I will re-foam the area I disrupted to do this. The tongue jack and break-away switch wires were spliced along the frame and heat shrunk to seal them. I also tied the ground wire back to it's original location on the frame.
I may add a horizontal support under the floor, between the two frame members, to give added support and stiffness to the floor of the storage area. The batteries are about 60 lbs or so. The rest of the hardware is mounted to a 1/2" piece of plywood, mounted to a fairly stiff vertical wall. I really don't know if additional support is needed or not. I suspect there are toolboxes weighing that much in some storage areas. A green treat 2x4 spanning most of the way left/right screwed under the floor would do a lot if needed. I believe the floor is plywood so it will not likely sag (as compared to OSB types of materials).
I want to thank those who previously posted great information and tips that I freely swiped. It was a fun project! Well, sitting with my neck bent in the pass-through got old...
1. Two Renogy 100amp-hr lithium batteries.
2. 2000w Renogy Inverter
3. 20a DC-DC charger
4. Watchdog 30amp
5. Homebrew transfer switch
6. Moved all DC wires/circuits/fuses from the frame to a fuse panel in the storage pass-thru.
7. Upgraded the converter to a lithium capable one, WF-8955LIS-MBA
Here is the electrical schematic of what I did (see updated diagram in later post!):
Here are some photos of the install:
Discussion:
The transfer switch uses two relays - one to keep the shore power hot and neutral separate from the inverter's hot and neutral, and another one to disconnect the converter while on inverter power. Coincidentally, the electric theater seats are powered from this same circuit breaker, so no need to worry if they are on when on inverter power. The relays are:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXWZP3R
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWIKF2A
In the 2500RL, the power distribution system is in the wall between the bath and bedroom, at the floor. I was able to fish a couple 10-2 NM-WG wires from under the sink to the little enclosed box (universal docking station) in the storage pass-through. I wanted to bring the shore power into the storage area so that I could install a hard-wired surge protector. I then routed it back to the distribution panel via the transfer relay.
I intentionally used the normally closed contacts of the relays for shore power operation, with the relay coils becoming active when the inverter is activated. I decided the small power drain is not a big battery penalty, since most of the time when in storage or in hook-ups at a campground the relays will be "idle". Most of the inverter use will simply be to make coffee or use the microwave without having to start a generator when dry camping. The remote on/off/monitor switch for the inverter is in the bathroom wall, a relatively easy location to fish the wire to. I did notice that the inverter "stumbles" a little on initial power up, meaning I hear a couple clicks/rattles of the relays before they "hard" engage. The inverter instructions say to let it power up for a few seconds prior to adding any load, and this is probably why. I could add some sort of delay relay in, but probably won't bother unless a good reason presents itself.
The battery disconnect actually, well, disconnects the battery! I did not like, but understand why, the factory design has so much junk still running even when disconnected. I want to know that all power is off. Someone mentioned in another thread regarding the break-away switch. I debated keeping this on full time, but ruled it out. One will not connect the trailer without battery power since the tongue jack is electric. I could make arguments either way on this one. I removed the factory disconnect switch and labeled it as "not used".
The wires that were down on the frame on the circuit breaker were fished back up through the hole they went down through initially, also in the docking area box. I will re-foam the area I disrupted to do this. The tongue jack and break-away switch wires were spliced along the frame and heat shrunk to seal them. I also tied the ground wire back to it's original location on the frame.
I may add a horizontal support under the floor, between the two frame members, to give added support and stiffness to the floor of the storage area. The batteries are about 60 lbs or so. The rest of the hardware is mounted to a 1/2" piece of plywood, mounted to a fairly stiff vertical wall. I really don't know if additional support is needed or not. I suspect there are toolboxes weighing that much in some storage areas. A green treat 2x4 spanning most of the way left/right screwed under the floor would do a lot if needed. I believe the floor is plywood so it will not likely sag (as compared to OSB types of materials).
I want to thank those who previously posted great information and tips that I freely swiped. It was a fun project! Well, sitting with my neck bent in the pass-through got old...
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