2022 337RLS converter blowing fuses

[Sam and Lora]

Our 2022 337RLS has had the converter fuses blown twice in 4 months. The batteries are not charging however everything works as usual when plugged into shore power but not when connected to the tow vehicle. Background on the issue: On the trip home when we picked up the RV from purchase (brand new) the landing gear would not work. I noticed the battery was depleted and tracked down the blown fuses on my own. I replaced them and no issues for 4 months and now, two days ago same thing. All three fuses were blown on the converter again. Unknown if this is related but the dealer installed second AC has never cooled, fan works but the compressor never comes on, and the original gas/electric refrigerator worked about 3 days before it was replaced under warranty. It had not been on a trip before this occurred. I am taking the unit in to the dealer to get the issue looked at but the first time took over a month to get it in the shop and back to us. It would be nice to know if there's something I can do or what I can look for. It's also a pain taking the panels off in the belly storage to get to the converter! Any help is appreciated.
Sam

[howson]

Our 2022 337RLS has had the converter fuses blown twice in 4 months. The batteries are not charging however everything works as usual when plugged into shore power but not when connected to the tow vehicle. Background on the issue: On the trip home when we picked up the RV from purchase (brand new) the landing gear would not work. I noticed the battery was depleted and tracked down the blown fuses on my own. I replaced them and no issues for 4 months and now, two days ago same thing. All three fuses were blown on the converter again. Unknown if this is related but the dealer installed second AC has never cooled, fan works but the compressor never comes on, and the original gas/electric refrigerator worked about 3 days before it was replaced under warranty. It had not been on a trip before this occurred. I am taking the unit in to the dealer to get the issue looked at but the first time took over a month to get it in the shop and back to us. It would be nice to know if there's something I can do or what I can look for. It's also a pain taking the panels off in the belly storage to get to the converter! Any help is appreciated.
Sam

Hi Sam--welcome to Grand Design's (technical) Owners' Forum. When you have a moment, please check out the Welcome Letter to New Members which was created to help newbies get the most from this forum. Link here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

The fuses on the converter blow if the battery is hooked up backwards. That's their only function...at least on the WFCO I'm familiar with working on. Your post states "three fuses" so that gives me pause--what is the exact make and model of the converter? The manual may provide clues.

If I'm reading and interpreting the post correctly, the converter worked fine on shore power but after hooking up the truck to the trailer the converter fails to work subsequently when connected to shore power. (To be clear--the converter only works when there is shore power, or 120vAC, available to the component.) That leads me to suspect either something's not right on the truck (easy to test with a tester available at almost any auto parts store) or perhaps something's not right related to the trailer's 7-pin power wire. In either case the fuses on the converter could be sensing the reversed 12v power and blowing (what they are supposed to do).

Any easy way to verify if you have a DMM: remove shore power from the trailer. Remove both leads from the battery (and secure them so they are not touching anything metallic but are easy to manipulate). If you have solar, cover the panel(s) with a tarp or something else to ensure their output does not affect the test.

Now hook up the truck's 7-pin and start the vehicle. With the DMM set to DC voltage and auto range, put the DMM;'s positive lead on the trailer's red battery wire (not the battery itself--the trailer's wire that was disconnected) and the DMM's negative lead on the trailer's black (battery negative) wire (not the battery itself--the trailer's negative battery wire that was disconnected). What does the DMM show? If it's a negative voltage (-12vDC)...there's a problem! It should be approximately +12vDC.

If none of that makes sense...fire back. Lots of smart folks here that maybe can explain it better. (I'd like that make and model of the converter, too, please!)

Howard

[Yoda]

Our 2022 337RLS has had the converter fuses blown twice in 4 months. The batteries are not charging however everything works as usual when plugged into shore power but not when connected to the tow vehicle. Background on the issue: On the trip home when we picked up the RV from purchase (brand new) the landing gear would not work. I noticed the battery was depleted and tracked down the blown fuses on my own. I replaced them and no issues for 4 months and now, two days ago same thing. All three fuses were blown on the converter again. Unknown if this is related but the dealer installed second AC has never cooled, fan works but the compressor never comes on, and the original gas/electric refrigerator worked about 3 days before it was replaced under warranty. It had not been on a trip before this occurred. I am taking the unit in to the dealer to get the issue looked at but the first time took over a month to get it in the shop and back to us. It would be nice to know if there's something I can do or what I can look for. It's also a pain taking the panels off in the belly storage to get to the converter! Any help is appreciated.
Sam

Sam
howson Howard is the expert here and has given you some excellent input.

Now this may sound puzzling, but is you Battery Disconnect switch ON (key pushed in and turned so it can't be removed). If it is off the Converter will not charge the batterys . However it would not explain the blown fuses. Also double check how the batterys are wired. Also check for any loose connections at the distribution panel. What I am wondering is if you have an interment short somewhere on the main feeds. If it is elsewhere than the circuit fuses would blow. Howard am I thinking correctly on this?

Last thought - have your batterys fully tested. I am wondering if an internal battery short might cause this? If fully depleted they can do strange things when recharged.

Hope this helps.

Keith

[Sam and Lora]

OK so I checked the tow vehicle electrical out put and using the procedure Howard suggested it appears all good. The converter is an Intelipower PD9260C.

Keith I appreciate the suggestion. I did check the Disconnect and it was on. My next day off work I'll check ever wire I can find looking for anything loose.

While I had the panels off I checked the output of the converter and it was 13.55v which, I assume, is close enough to 13.6v as stated on the specs of the inverter. Since I've replaced the fuses a few days ago the battery has been charging. However, when I checked the battery voltage during the tow vehicle test it only showed 12.3v. I checked it nearly immediately after turning off the power and unhooking the terminals. I understand this is a low reading for a supposedly fully charged battery. I guess Ill have the battery tested to see what's going on with it and weather it might be causing my issues or was collateral damage.

I schedueled an appointment but the first available date was Aug 17. UGH.

[ncitro]

OK so I checked the tow vehicle electrical out put and using the procedure Howard suggested it appears all good. The converter is an Intelipower PD9260C.

Keith I appreciate the suggestion. I did check the Disconnect and it was on. My next day off work I'll check ever wire I can find looking for anything loose.

While I had the panels off I checked the output of the converter and it was 13.55v which, I assume, is close enough to 13.6v as stated on the specs of the inverter. Since I've replaced the fuses a few days ago the battery has been charging. However, when I checked the battery voltage during the tow vehicle test it only showed 12.3v. I checked it nearly immediately after turning off the power and unhooking the terminals. I understand this is a low reading for a supposedly fully charged battery. I guess Ill have the battery tested to see what's going on with it and weather it might be causing my issues or was collateral damage.

I schedueled an appointment but the first available date was Aug 17. UGH.

You could pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store. They will test it for no charge and let you know with no wait for an appointment.

I am a little confused in your process, but the converter and truck charging system are completely separate. The seven pin wiring from the truck contains a 12v+ wire that goes to the 12v distribution system and charges the battery directly. The converter is only used to "convert" 120v shore power to charge the battery and power the rigs 12v loads.

[Sam and Lora]

You could pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store. They will test it for no charge and let you know with no wait for an appointment.

I am a little confused in your process, but the converter and truck charging system are completely separate. The seven pin wiring from the truck contains a 12v+ wire that goes to the 12v distribution system and charges the battery directly. The converter is only used to "convert" 120v shore power to charge the battery and power the rigs 12v loads.

I will try to find a free test place then. Thanks.

As far as the process someone else suggested I check the tow vehicle wiring also. I have a little electrical knowledge but not much vehicular and even less RV electrical experience. So I thought I'd give the suggestion a try. I guess at least I know my truck is working properly.

Still open to suggestions

Sam

[howson]

Sam and Lora -- the manual, at http://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-con...al-english.pdf confirms my earlier statement about the fuses. To quote the manual,

REVERSE BATTERY PROTECTION prevents damage if battery leads are cross connected. Since the only consequence of cross connection is a blown fuse, damage to or possible replacement of the converter is avoided. Cross connection of battery leads is the only thing that will blow these fuses. Replacement fuses are available at any automotive store.

Progressive has excellent troubleshooting guides on their website, too.

To ensure good communication, when it's stated "fuses are blowing" we're talking about the three that are actually on the Progressive unit, right? (As shown below.)

[familytruckster4]

I have a sneaking suspicion that the wiring on the battery(s) is faulty and has caused the fuse failure on the converter as well as the tow vehicle.
My first checks would be to assure the battery(s) connections are not loose or faulty and then make sure the tow vehicle is producing voltage at the 7 way plug.

[ncitro]

I will try to find a free test place then. Thanks.

As far as the process someone else suggested I check the tow vehicle wiring also. I have a little electrical knowledge but not much vehicular and even less RV electrical experience. So I thought I'd give the suggestion a try. I guess at least I know my truck is working properly.

Still open to suggestions

Sam

No problem just trying to get sorted what you have going on. Howard is right, are we talking about the fuses on the actual converter itself?

[Sam and Lora]

No problem just trying to get sorted what you have going on. Howard is right, are we talking about the fuses on the actual converter itself?

Yes sir the actual fuses on the converter.

[Sam and Lora]

Sam and Lora -- the manual, at http://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-con...al-english.pdf confirms my earlier statement about the fuses. To quote the manual,

REVERSE BATTERY PROTECTION prevents damage if battery leads are cross connected. Since the only consequence of cross connection is a blown fuse, damage to or possible replacement of the converter is avoided. Cross connection of battery leads is the only thing that will blow these fuses. Replacement fuses are available at any automotive store.

Progressive has excellent troubleshooting guides on their website, too.

To ensure good communication, when it's stated "fuses are blowing" we're talking about the three that are actually on the Progressive unit, right? (As shown below.)

Yes those fuses actually on the converter. Thanks so much for the advice and education! I am leaning toward some intermittent short. I cant think of what else it could be given that it went months between the blown fuse occurrences.

Sam

[Sam and Lora]

I have a sneaking suspicion that the wiring on the battery(s) is faulty and has caused the fuse failure on the converter as well as the tow vehicle.
My first checks would be to assure the battery(s) connections are not loose or faulty and then make sure the tow vehicle is producing voltage at the 7 way plug.

I am opening up all the panels tomorrow and going to start some sort of methodical process to check the associated wires between the battery to the converter to the 7-way and anything else. Also getting the battery tested Which I am sure is hurt because its only a few months old and only achieves 12.3 volts now.
The 7-way was producing voltage at the plug and through the battery terminals.

Sam

[familytruckster4]

Sam and Lora Just for clarity, your comment about the tow vehicle producing voltage "at the plug and through the battery terminals" is a little confusing to me. The tow vehicle should be checked independent of the trailer. My typical method of attacking these issues is to check all of the cheap and easy things first. If the plug on the truck is producing approximately 14 volts with the truck running then you can rule that out and set the truck aside, leaving it out of further diagnosis.
I wouldnt be so quick to write off that battery either. It may be salvageable using a good charging unit such as a NOCO genius. I have seen many batterys returned to useful service after being bench charged for several days on a good charger.
Some info on your vehicle might also be helpful.
Good luck and please Keep us posted.
Scott

[Sam and Lora]

Sam and Lora Just for clarity, your comment about the tow vehicle producing voltage "at the plug and through the battery terminals" is a little confusing to me. The tow vehicle should be checked independent of the trailer. My typical method of attacking these issues is to check all of the cheap and easy things first. If the plug on the truck is producing approximately 14 volts with the truck running then you can rule that out and set the truck aside, leaving it out of further diagnosis.
I wouldnt be so quick to write off that battery either. It may be salvageable using a good charging unit such as a NOCO genius. I have seen many batterys returned to useful service after being bench charged for several days on a good charger.
Some info on your vehicle might also be helpful.
Good luck and please Keep us posted.
Scott

I confuse myself sometimes. But I did check the tow vehicle independently at the plug and it was good.

Update for anyone else who was concerned, the battery had a dead cell according to auto zone but they said the battery is a walmart battery. I checked with the dealer and the battery did indeed come from walmart, I guess times are tough and they get batteries where they can? Anyways walmart replaced the battery for free since it was purchased only 5 moths ago.

[ncitro]

I confuse myself sometimes. But I did check the tow vehicle independently at the plug and it was good.

Update for anyone else who was concerned, the battery had a dead cell according to auto zone but they said the battery is a walmart battery. I checked with the dealer and the battery did indeed come from walmart, I guess times are tough and they get batteries where they can? Anyways walmart replaced the battery for free since it was purchased only 5 moths ago.

I could see where a shorter cell in the battery could trip the reverse polarity fuses. Good find and glad they replaced it for you.