Low pressure on city water, good on pump, need suggestions

[texas05]

We have low water pressure on city water. Pressure is good on pump. We removed filter, regulator etc... and still low. I have read about the hot water issues with the check value on the hot water tank but don't think that is an issue as the pressures is fine on the pump. Also the outside faucet is shut.

Also the initial pressure on city water is good for a second then drops. Actually the regulator showed a drop where it was 50 then would go to 20. But when connecting a water hose to the water supply pressure remained so don't think it is the campground.

Should I check the check value on the city water inlet? Lines all look good. Anything else I should check?

Thanks

[TedS]

Did the pressure remain good with no regulator on the hose?

May have a bad, collapsing, hose.

[texas05]

Did the pressure remain good with no regulator on the hose?

no, in the trailer pressure goes down. With or without regulator using a hose just connected to spigot the pressure is fine.

[Rabbit]

Where in the line is the pressure gauge?

[howson]

We have low water pressure on city water. Pressure is good on pump. We removed filter, regulator etc... and still low. I have read about the hot water issues with the check value on the hot water tank but don't think that is an issue as the pressures is fine on the pump. Also the outside faucet is shut.

Also the initial pressure on city water is good for a second then drops. Actually the regulator showed a drop where it was 50 then would go to 20. But when connecting a water hose to the water supply pressure remained so don't think it is the campground.

Should I check the check value on the city water inlet? Lines all look good. Anything else I should check?

Thanks

Suggest reversing the screen on the city water inlet which effectively forces the inlet valve to stay open, then check to see if city water operation is sufficient. If no improvement, it's not the inlet valve. If flow is much improved, replace the city inlet valve. (Don't leave the screen reversed--the backflow prevention provided by the city inlet valve is there for a very important reason!)

Below is the screen I'm referencing--normal orientation is the "cone" facing out. Reverse the screen so the "cone" is in (pressing against the valve) to force it open.

As noted on the panel--MAKE SURE all pressure is relieved from the system before pushing the valve in.



Howard

[Yoda]

We have low water pressure on city water. Pressure is good on pump. We removed filter, regulator etc... and still low. I have read about the hot water issues with the check value on the hot water tank but don't think that is an issue as the pressures is fine on the pump. Also the outside faucet is shut.

Also the initial pressure on city water is good for a second then drops. Actually the regulator showed a drop where it was 50 then would go to 20. But when connecting a water hose to the water supply pressure remained so don't think it is the campground.

Should I check the check value on the city water inlet? Lines all look good. Anything else I should check?

Thanks

Don
Excellent advice here.
As Howard mention check the inlet screen (it could be plugged) and check the screens on your pressure regulator. Speaking of regulators which model do you have. All are not created equal. Most of the preset inline models are actually low flow and very restrictive. Consider a quality adjustable High Flow model with gauge. I always check the campground pressure and if below 45 psi I don't use the regulator. My house pressure can hit 60 psi (well pump) and I have had no issues at that pressure, but I believe GD recommends 45 max. I have my adjustable unit set a tad higher than 45 .
Keith

PS remember to take your pressure regulator inside during winter storage - they are very sensitive to freezing.

[ncitro]

texas05 this may be obvious but are you sure the city water has good pressure? I've been in a few campgrounds that had worse flow than my pump could put out and I ran on my pump and used the city water to fill my tank.

[JBill9694]

texas05 a high or good starting pressure (strong flow) that then drops (weaker flow, but not complete loss of flow) usually indicates a partial blockage or pinched line. With all the valves closed, pressure in the system can build to the maximum, which accounts for the strong flow when a valve is first opened. Then the partial blockage or pinched line prevents the water from flowing freely at the maximum pressure. Since you have already checked a good suspect for a partial blockage, the water filter cartridge, I'll propose a few others.

Is there a backflow preventer on the spigot? These are just check valves and if your pressure reducer is connected directly to the BP, that central stem on the BP can cause your PR to malfunction. Use a short nipple between the BP and PR to solve this problem.

Check your supply hose. I know this sounds pretty basic, but it is possible that your hose is twisted or kinked. It may look fine under full pressure but once a valve is opened the twist or kink can close off.

As Howard suggest, check your check valve.

Check for a pinched hose on board. If all the faucets are showing low flow the pinch may be in your main line before the manifold. If it is one or two particular faucets or valves, then this will clue you in to where to look.

[texas05]

Thanks, some things here I have not tried. I will reverse the screen (after relieving pressure) and the spigot may have a BP so I will check that as well.

I think everything inside is okay as the pressure is good to all the fixtures. I've put eyes on everything and all the hoses look good as well.

[texas05]

It was the campground. Backflow preventer at the spigot was the issue. I have 2 regulators and both would not work.