Slide out not working, only clicking

[TedS]

Regarding backdrive, should not be too hard. The ratio is 18:1

[Jlawles2]

Dave27 You might be able to make a driver our of a piece of metal tubing. Electrical conduit with a slot cut in the end to fit over the drive pins. For the other end, you can just drill a set of holes and insert a screwdriver, or find some way to affix it to the over ride handle.

The only other option I can think of is since you are this far into the motor, just pull the drive gear shot out and use it as the adapter for the shaft to actuator.

[gbkims]

I'd check the gear pack also: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...6292#post26292

Venture is one of LCIs suppliers I think https://www.venturemfgco.com/slide-out-actuator/
https://www.venturemfgco.com/uploadf...incal-Data.pdf

Lippert bent slide motor mouting brkt's, (motor gearbox, clutch, actuator): http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...3.cfm#23308863

[Cate&Rob]

Just catching up to this latest discussion. Is there a mechanism (over riding clutch or similar) to allow the manual wrench connection to turn the drive screw without “back driving” the motor ? There would be a lot of resistance to back driving all those gears all the way to the motor armature.

Rob

Dave27

From the LCI Manual . . . It is important to note that you DO NOT need to attempt to disengage the motor as the actuator is “manual ready.”
This does not define whether turning the override wrench back drives the motor all the way to the armature . . . but, I expect that this is the case.
Country Campers Brian, can you tell if this is the case from the motor that you have?
My reason for asking this question is to figure out if a jammed motor can prevent the manual override from turning the drive screw.

Rob

[Country Campers]

Cate&Rob

Rob

When manually operating the slide the motor does turn and the clutch stays in position , the clutch does not disengage when in manual mode. As mentioned earlier by Ted the gearbox/motor assembly is 18 to 1 ratio , not hard to turn at all.

Brian

[Dave27]

Just an update. I put the gearbox and motor back on so I could operate the manual over ride. I am able to crank it out by hand without any problem. I called Lippert and he is going to send me directions to for adjustments. He thinks the gears may be missing when I try to extend the slide out. It is not clear to me what he is thinking, hopefully it will be clearer when I get the directions.
Dave

[Country Campers]

Dave

If you can operate the slide by manual mode then your problem might just be the gears , I am hoping. When you get the new gears installed please let us know if it operates.

Brian

[Dave27]

Here is another update, and right now I am confused. I didn't swap out the gears because they moved smoothly when I moved them by hand and when I ran them by themselves with a battery. I put the motor and gearbox back on so I could try to manually open the slide out. It opens easily manually. I hooked the motor up, and can open and close it, but it has the same symptoms my wife originally noticed. When the switch is pushed open, the clank of the clutch is heard. Push in, the clank of the clutch is heard, but now when out is pushed, it opens. Based on Lippert's recommendations, I started checking the adjustments. The stop can is slightly bent on the outer lip. I don't know if this is from 5 years of use, or if I turned the manual over ride the wrong way in my frustration last week. I adjusted it so it stops 1/4 inch sooner, and then I tried 1/2 inch. It seals better at 1/4 inch, I will go back to that. The slide in not perfectly centered, it is slightly toward the rear. I don't know if it is worth trying to center it or not. They also wanted me to measure the voltage. The battery would typically start at 12.4 v, and under load from the slide drop to 12.2 v, and maybe near the end down to 12.1 v. I also measured it at the motor. It would be at 0 with the switch closed, I couldn't read any numbers when the clutch was operating. When the slide started to move the voltage was about 9.2v, and it would climb to about 10.6v as the slide advanced, and start to decline as it reached near fully open. I don't understand what this means (if anything). I made a video of the open/close sequence focusing on the drive side gear pack. I plan to call Lippert and see what they think.

Dave

[TedS]

Those low voltage numbers at the motor suggest that the wiring is undersized for the motor current draw. The changes in voltage from start to run indicates the normal change in current from high current, more voltage drop in the wire, at zero rpm starting to less current, lower voltage drop in the wire, during travel.

[Country Campers]

I will suggest a new battery. When we had a battery that was getting weak the slides and jacks were not performing correct at all , even on shore power. If the battery has weak cells it will not put out the amperage needed to run the motors correctly. Even though shore power is attached and the converter is operating at peak performance the motors still need the amps from the battery to perform. If you could remove the battery and have it load tested I think you will find that it will not pass.

Brian

[Dave27]

I will suggest a new battery. When we had a battery that was getting weak the slides and jacks were not performing correct at all , even on shore power. If the battery has weak cells it will not put out the amperage needed to run the motors correctly. Even though shore power is attached and the converter is operating at peak performance the motors still need the amps from the battery to perform. If you could remove the battery and have it load tested I think you will find that it will not pass.

Brian

These are new Trojan 6 v batteries, I hope they aren't weak. I installed them last August.

[Dave27]

I talked to Lippert and they said the voltage should not be that low at the motor, and suggested I test the input and output at the controller. I called Grand Design to find out where they placed the controller, and they said somewhere in the pass through. Attached is an illustration of the controller. When I find it, what is the best way to measure the input and output?

thanks,
Dave
slide out controller.pdf

[ncitro]

Battery and ground should be input. Not sure on the output terminals. I would think motor red to ground would be one direction and motor black to ground would be the other.

For troubleshooting the controller if you’ve got two of these slide outs you should be able to swap the controller’s and see if the problem moves.

I assume it does this regardless of if you’re plugged in? If so Andy assuming your converter is good that should rule out the batteries.

[gbkims]

I talked to Lippert and they said the voltage should not be that low at the motor, and suggested I test the input and output at the controller. I called Grand Design to find out where they placed the controller, and they said somewhere in the pass through. Attached is an illustration of the controller. When I find it, what is the best way to measure the input and output?

thanks,
Dave
[ATTACH]n47575[/ATTACH]

Well, it's the relay contacts in that controller most likely bad.
So the Clicking has been the relays energizing, not the louder clacking from the gearbox clutch.
I hadn't seen that controller before. Wonder what manual it's shown in.
I skipped right over it: 2 x 2 Electric Through Frame Slide-Out Components

[Country Campers]

Dave

I do not think that the controller that you have attached is in your model. If you remove the convenience panel and look at the back of the switch I do not think you will see that connection. The thru frame slide does not need a controller like the Schwintek slide as it only uses one motor to control the slide , Schwintek uses 2 motors and need to stay synced. If you have a good 12 volt battery you could slide under and jump wires to the motor to extend the slide and retract the slide. If this works then you would need to see what voltage is supplied to the wires for the motor from the RV thru the switch. I am really thinking that you have a voltage problem , using my battery method will eliminate the slide motor and mechanism.

Brian