Slide out not working, only clicking

[TedS]

If there is no controller, then this would be the switch connections. Screen shot of the manual page.

[ncitro]

Dave

I do not think that the controller that you have attached is in your model. If you remove the convenience panel and look at the back of the switch I do not think you will see that connection. The thru frame slide does not need a controller like the Schwintek slide as it only uses one motor to control the slide , Schwintek uses 2 motors and need to stay synced. If you have a good 12 volt battery you could slide under and jump wires to the motor to extend the slide and retract the slide. If this works then you would need to see what voltage is supplied to the wires for the motor from the RV thru the switch. I am really thinking that you have a voltage problem , using my battery method will eliminate the slide motor and mechanism.

Brian

Yeah I agree thats a great way to rule things out. If you are positive your GC batteries are good and you do not have a spare, you could even run some wires to them for testing.

[Cate&Rob]

Dave

I do not think that the controller that you have attached is in your model. If you remove the convenience panel and look at the back of the switch I do not think you will see that connection.

Dave27

Hi Dave,

I think Brian is correct . . . your (our) vintage of Reflections do not have these controllers (at least mine does not). The reversing switches in the main panel simply control relays in the front compartment above the battery. I suspect the wiring to these relays is loose or the extend relay is malfunctioning. You should be seeing voltage at the slide motor that is almost the same as voltage at the battery. If not, there is a wiring problem between the two. It should be fairly simple the "jump" the terminal posts of each relay to see if one of the relays is the problem.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Dave27 If you can find the relays, instead of jumping the extend one, it may be easier to just swap them.

I was having issues in the previous unit with it burning up relays and the fastest solution was to just swap them to get the slide in. Ended up having to pull the motor and clean the armature (ran with low voltage and amperage is my suspect) with polishing compound. After that, new relays from amazon at $5 each (or cheaper) fixed the issue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[howson]

Cate&Rob and Jlawles2 --relay?

LCI's wiring diagram shows the switch is the actuation device for power, with the motor powered one way or another depending on the switch position.

TedS ' post 46 has a copy of the schematic showing the two possibilities of the wiring. (Depends on if it's an "old style" or "new style" switch.)

Howard

[Dave27]

Jlawles2 Cate&Rob ncitro TedS Country Campers
I appreciate all your suggestions and input. I saw the wiring diagram without a controller, but on the 2x2 through frame components list there is a controller. I pulled the Convenience Center, and the switch is not like that controller. I looked all through the pass through, and I can't find a controller for the through frame slide out (there are two controllers for the Schwintek slide outs). I don't know where any relays are located, if that comes into play here.

I measured the voltage at the switch. It is the second switch in on the photo. There is one clip on one side, and three on the other. I measured the voltage across each of these without activating the switch. The battery is at 12.6 V, the same as measuring the voltage at the middle clip. The upper and lower clips are both at 11.3 V. Shouldn't the voltage be 0 until the switch is activated? What is the significance of this?

Thanks, Dave

[howson]

I measured the voltage at the switch. It is the second switch in on the photo. There is one clip on one side, and three on the other.

Hope you don't mind me jumping into this thread, Dave.

I can't make out from the picture which switch you have--but I think it's the new style. The diagram below is from the Electric Through Frame Slide-Out System Service Manual (same place TedS got the other diagram).



Can you rephrase the measurements you took using the color codes in the picture above and confirm the switch style?

In other words,
New Style Slide-Out Switch
BLACK (upper) to YELLOW = x volts
RED to BLACK (lower) = x volts

Note that the actual color of the wires on your switch probably won't correspond to Lippert's diagram.

Finally, in post #38, 9v was measured at the motor during actuation. Is it also 9V at the switch with the slide moving?

[TedS]

I would expect +12v only at one terminal when the switch is off. Is this a lighted switch that may be drawing current when off?

[Dave27]

Hope you don't mind me jumping into this thread, Dave.

I can't make out from the picture which switch you have--but I think it's the new style. The diagram below is from the Electric Through Frame Slide-Out System Service Manual (same place TedS got the other diagram).



Can you rephrase the measurements you took using the color codes in the picture above and confirm the switch style?

In other words,
New Style Slide-Out Switch
BLACK (upper) to YELLOW = x volts
RED to BLACK (lower) = x volts

Note that the actual color of the wires on your switch probably won't correspond to Lippert's diagram.

Finally, in post #38, 9v was measured at the motor during actuation. Is it also 9V at the switch with the slide moving?

The switch isn't like either of these. And the wires aren't color coded! The ground is on the right side by itself in the middle when you look at the back. There are three inline vertically on the left. The middle must be coming from the battery (it measures 12.6 V, same as the battery), and I assume the upper one is to bring the slide in, and the lower one to extend the slide. Both of these measured the same I haven't figured out how to measure at the switch when operating it, there is not much room to work with. I hope this is a little clearer.
Dave

[howson]

@Dave27--that explains it very clearly, thank you! GD is using their own switch, not Lippert's, so the manual's diagram is instructive but not definitive.

I'll go take some measurements on mine and see if they match. I'll be right back...

[gbkims]

My slide out reversing switches look similar on the rear.
The clicking still has me wondering, maybe the 30A Auto Resetting CB on the fuse panel for that slide and battery problem as has been mentioned.
Switch going bad? Maybe swap switches.

[Dave27]

I can see the wire colors from the bottom. Here is a sketch. The ground is in the middle of the three vertical clips. 12.6 V measured between the two middle clips, and 0 between the lower red/white and ground. That makes sense.

[howson]

Dave27 ,
gbkims has the right switch. Below I labeled them according to what I measured on my camper.



Measurements (common to V, or black to red on DMM):

1 to 2 = 0
1 to 3 = 13.59v
1 to 4 = 0
2 to 3 = 0
2 to 4 = 0
3 to 4 = 0

Note: I suggest not using the AUTO range on your DMM if there is one. There are very slight mV measurements where I wrote "0" in the chart above. On Auto the observer, if not carefully looking at the scale, can be fooled into thinking there's a higher voltage on those pins.

The lowest I saw the voltage go on my DMM while the kitchen slide was transiting out was 12.44V (and that was at the beginning). Not enough room to measure the slide coming in without removing the switch for better access. When the clutch was slipping the voltage stayed constant.

You already know this based on being back there, but permit me to emphasize to be very cautious around those pins on the back of the panel. Lots of ways to short out 12v and blow a fuse (or worse). Safest strategy is to use the Battery Disconnect to remove 12v from that panel when fussing with it.

Howard

[Dave27]

Dave27 ,
gbkims has the right switch. Below I labeled them according to what I measured on my camper.



Measurements (common to V, or black to red on DMM):

1 to 2 = 0
1 to 3 = 13.59v
1 to 4 = 0
2 to 3 = 0
2 to 4 = 0
3 to 4 = 0

Note: I suggest not using the AUTO range on your DMM if there is one. There are very slight mV measurements where I wrote "0" in the chart above. On Auto the observer, if not carefully looking at the scale, can be fooled into thinking there's a higher voltage on those pins.

The lowest I saw the voltage go on my DMM while the kitchen slide was transiting out was 12.44V (and that was at the beginning). Not enough room to measure the slide coming in without removing the switch for better access. When the clutch was slipping the voltage stayed constant.

You already know this based on being back there, but permit me to emphasize to be very cautious around those pins on the back of the panel. Lots of ways to short out 12v and blow a fuse (or worse). Safest strategy is to use the Battery Disconnect to remove 12v from that panel when fussing with it.

Howard

Mine must be different, using your numbering system, 2 to 4 = 12.6 v, everything else is zero. So this would mean my ground is 2, positive is 4, and 1 is in/out and 3 is in/out (I don't know which). I am trying to figure out a way to measure the voltage and push the switch at the same time.

[howson]

Mine must be different, using your numbering system, 2 to 4 = 12.6 v, everything else is zero. So this would mean my ground is 2, positive is 4, and 1 is in/out and 3 is in/out (I don't know which). I am trying to figure out a way to measure the voltage and push the switch at the same time.

It shouldn't be different unless that's a different switch in your unit. Wouldn't surprise me at all.

I have alligator clips that attach to my DMM's leads. I was measuring the slide going OUT as configured in the picture.