TucsonJim When all else fails and you have a clicker torque wrench, floor jack under the handle and lift up. Had to do this one time to get bolts off a caliper bracket for service. Could not get impact on the bolt to break it loose.
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Do I really need to use a torque wrench?
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
Torque can easily be calculated with ones body mass and the length of a bar. Force (lb) X Distance (ft) = Torque (lb-ft). This will get you reasonably close.
Caution: Slipping off a breaker bar can be hazardous to ones health.
Jim2021 Reflection 337RLS, 2024 Silverado 3500HD 6.6 gas with faux Allison 10 speed. Nellie the Diva, wonder boxer
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Originally posted by hduring View PostMaybe this can fall under “hitch heads?” We have a MORryde king pin. https://www.morryde.com/wp-content/u...ers-Manual.pdf
• Periodically check the torque values of all hardware. Torque specifications are attached.
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We have a very long camping trip planned for the Spring. We want to ensure we are prepared before our travels, and it’s the little things that can bite us. Appreciate everyone’s info so far.
Heinz2022 Momentum 397THS-R 12/3/2021
Traded 2021 Reflection 337
2020 Chevy Silverado 3500 DRW
Formerly M&K337
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I had heard when using a torque wrench you needed to loosen the nut first and then re-tighten to the proper torque. No one seems to be doing that on this thread can anyone comment? If you don’t do this you have the chance supposedly of over torquing the boltPaul, Judy and Embr
2021 310 gk
2019 Ram Mega cab dually diesel
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Paul and judy
if you have reason to believe that a nut has been over-torqued (such as if someone went at it with an impact gun) then the only way to determine this is to loosen and re-torque the fastener. When re-checking lug nuts with a torque wrench set to the same value as the original tightening . . . all that can be determined is that the nut has not slipped to a lower torque. Per my earlier comment, you can use the allowable torque range to initially set towards the lower end and re-torque towards the upper end. This way, you can expect each nut to move slightly, indicating that it was not initially over torqued.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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I had removed the Pullrite slider from the truck for the summer so as part of putting it back in went through the bolts and checked the torque on the different bolts per the manual.
For the pin box I'm relying on the "if there aren't any rust tracks it's probably good" method. Seems like with the dump trucks and heavy equipment anytime something on a vertical surface is under a lot of pressure if it for some reason isn't tightened properly a "rust track" will start that alerts you to the fact things are moving.
From my younger days in the Navy and as a Merchant Mariner, crab nuts on an EMD 645 that hold the cylander liner & head in place get torqued to 1200 ft/lbs - takes a torque multiplier and an extra helping of Thanksgiving dinner.Chris
2019 Solitude 3740BH
2019 Chevy 3500HD Duramax SRW
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Originally posted by familytruckster4 View PostI use a torque wrench when I have it but I also travel with a 1/2" breaker bar and a Craftsmen 1/2 drive impact with 3/4 deepwell impact socket. I have checked the torque many many times after using my impact and the breaker bar and am typically within 5 ft lbs of my goal, well within the allowable range called out by Dexter, 100-120 ft/lb
My Impact typically produces 90 ft/lb with a fully charged battery. If the battery is towards the end of its recharge cycle it will drop slightly. I do the final torque with my breaker bar or my torque wrench if its available.Full timers in 2022 Reflection 303RLS with Gypsy (7 pound calico cat) and Nanuq (90 pound Samoyed).
2018 F450 Platinum.
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