Tackling Bearings (Lessons Along the Way)

[Scott'n'Wendy]

This is what I do also. Every time I pull, I drive at 20 mph and fully apply the brake lever in the truck. If any tires skid, I back it down. If there is a lag in braking, I increase it.

Jim

I do something similar but use the nose of the 5th wheel. When I apply the brakes I watch the nose of the 5th wheel. If it raises up, the trailer is pushing on the truck so I increase the brake bias. If the nose goes down upon application of brakes, the trailer is braking more aggressively than the truck, so I reduce the brake bias. I get the brakes set so when I hit the brakes the trailer stays level or drops just a little bit.

[guest2]

I had the brakes turned up to that on my trailer, and found that although I liked the feel of the trailer pulling a little, the tires, depending on the road surface would sometimes unnecessarily lock up, I backed mine down to 6.5. The trailer is still stopping great.

Yup. In a panic braking situation, locking trailer brakes will skid the tires and cause a jackknife situation. Sliding tires equal no traction.
Rich

[guest2]

Having been initiated in the cup and cone era of front suspension and only knowing how to hand pack for more than 3/4 of my existence, the torque value is more to ensure that people whom do not know the change in tone or feel of a properly seated race in the cast housing feels or sounds. I've put in races a couple of different ways, still go back with a punch and hammer listening for that distinctive ring of bottoming out the race.

Howard, I will agree that the bent over tabs are not ideal. I have used a hammer to smack the GM ears on pad to tighten them up to prevent squeaks. (old school trick my dad taught me). Is it possible that they chose to bend the tabs over to avoid contact with the rim?

I'm going to suggest that you avoid standard grease due to the temperature that is possible. I bought and have a caliper specific grease in my bag of tricks, something like: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05359-Cal...s%2C107&sr=8-5

I've used synthetic grease in the past and had issues with it, better than nothing, but did have issues. Also have used anti-seize compound (high temp stuff), but that makes a mess this and next time.

I agree that only petroleum based wheel bearing grease should be used. My 20+ years experience as a professional ASE Master Certified Technician talking.
Rich

[sc7903]

I have a Dexter BrakeRite Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator. When compressing the piston on the caliper to install new pads, can I simply compress the piston back into the caliper with a c-clamp without doing any damage to the BrakeRite actuator? Or, do i need to open one of the bleed screws on the caliper before compressing.

[howson]

I have a Dexter BrakeRite Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator. When compressing the piston on the caliper to install new pads, can I simply compress the piston back into the caliper with a c-clamp without doing any damage to the BrakeRite actuator? Or, do i need to open one of the bleed screws on the caliper before compressing.

Cate&Rob or any number of "gearheads" here are more qualified than me to answer this question, so take this reply with a grain of salt. I've used blocks of wood with a large channel lock pliers and even managed to do it with fingers (on a motorcycle). There are special tools made for the task, too, for those who like to spend money on that type of thing. (I'm thinking of you, Yoda!) Do an image search for "brake caliber tool" in DuckDuckGo or Google -- there's any number of options.

Howard

[Country Campers]

I have a Dexter BrakeRite Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator. When compressing the piston on the caliper to install new pads, can I simply compress the piston back into the caliper with a c-clamp without doing any damage to the BrakeRite actuator? Or, do i need to open one of the bleed screws on the caliper before compressing.

Yes, compressing the caliper cylinder with a c-clamp is fine, use the clamp against an old brake pad so you do not damage the cylinder or push it in too far.

Brian