UO21-003 MOR Ryde X-Factor Adjustable Crossmember Discusion

[Yoda]

I thought I would start this partially as TucsonJim was looking too. I spoke with Morryde and they said the UO21-003 would fit my center hanger, but that my end hanger were too wide and to use thier weld on RE21-004 However after reading the instructions (page two) I could just drill a hole in my wider hanger. https://www.morryde.com/wp-content/u...structions.pdf


Am I reading the instructions correctly?

I also heard back from Jennifer at morryde.com - Good afternoon. We do still make the UO21-003. If your front and rear frame hangers are the same as the photo, yes, you would have to put one hole in the frame hanger for the bolt to go through. It will wrap around the other side on the perpendicular side.

I am thinking of doing all three locations based on my frame cracks I found. Post to come, but locations and cracks are similar to the face book posting for the Reflection 220RK found here https://www.facebook.com/groups/316794188993517

I will be starting a new thread on the cracks, but the short of it is Lippert did open a case for me even though I am past warrenty

So back on topic - Is anyone using this brace and how is it doing?

Thanks
Keith


Other information sources
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...de/MR49ZR.html
Dimensions of the end plate
https://www.etrailer.com/question-612447.html

https://www.morryde.com/products/x-factor-crossmember/

On edit found another article
https://www.morryde.com/wp-content/u...ticle-2017.pdf

[TucsonJim]

Yoda

Keith - From the photo, it looks like your spare tire would be in the way for a brace on the rear spring hangers. How would you handle that?

Jim

[Yoda]

Yoda

Keith - From the photo, it looks like your spare tire would be in the way for a brace on the rear spring hangers. How would you handle that?

Jim

I think it will actually clear, but I need to measure. There is some slop on where the tire can set when raised. Right now I have the spare down and out, so will put it back and check. The X factor tube is 3" by 3" and wold be parallel to the vertical front face on the hanger. Do you think there would be an issue if the tire was against the cross tube when raised?

BTW one of the crack locations appear to be where the spare tire lift assembly is welded inside the frame.

Keith

[Yoda]

Yoda

Keith - From the photo, it looks like your spare tire would be in the way for a brace on the rear spring hangers. How would you handle that?

Jim

Update. I have the X-Factors installed (covered under my axle replacement thread) https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...t-step-by-step

However Jim has some very sharp eye perception. I lifted the spare in place to check two things. One reason was where to attach the propane line attachment points to clear the spare and add studs to go through the rigid insulation, and second to check clearance with the x-factor.. Keep in mind folks I sub framed the unit with 2x2 tubing, so everything is lower along the edges where the coroplast is attached. It used to be on the same level.

I'll let the photos speak for themselves.


Spare in position to be raised. When lifted it first just kissed the X-Factor withe tread, What would have been a glove fit except for the bolts, It then hing up on the bolts. However I think I have a solution.

Note - the tire is on an angle as it first contacted the new 2x2 sub frame cross member (center of photo 2 just left of the x-factor)., then tilted on the left to contact the original frame cross member that is now 2" higher. I will be using 2" rigid insulation here, so it should level it out. I don't think the insulation will compress that much, but can probably add a section of 2" wood or metal where the tire makes contact for better support. Should I plan on that?

My solution will be to flip the nuts to the inside so the bolt face is out, and pad it with some HD rubber flooring material I have. That way there will be nothing sharp against the tread. Its a matter of inches for it to clear,

Now if I had not upgraded to 16^ tires this would be a non issue as I am sure GD places the tire lift cross member for the 15" OEM tires to clear things.

Thoughts on this solution?

Thanks for your sharp eyes Jim.

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda Hi Keith,

What about using carriage bolts with the smooth head of the bolt against the tire?

Rob

[Yoda]

Yoda Hi Keith,

What about using carriage bolts with the smooth head of the bolt against the tire?

Rob

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm the holes are elongated on the outside channel, round on the inside so that might work. Off to TS to see what they have tomorrow. Problem is the torque wrench wont fit inside the channel - but I can probably get close to the 40 FT-lbs needed.

Thanks for the idea.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Yoda Keith, Off to spending your money again: https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-81...7126135&sr=8-5

You should know us better than that by now that we will come up with a tool that you do not have to do the job that needs to be in the set......

You can also add acorn nuts to the ends of the bolts there to make them smooth. Use washers if needed to keep the acorn nut thread engagement to about 1 nut depth or it can pop the top off.

https://www.amazon.com/16-18-Acorn-S...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

[StormPod]

I have added 3 X members to my previous and current rigs with great results. Self installed.

[Yoda]

Yoda Hi Keith,

What about using carriage bolts with the smooth head of the bolt against the tire?

Rob

Could not find grade 8 carriage bolts. OEM is grade 8 So I flipped them and used lock-tite..



Much better fir against the tire and x-factor - no sharp bolt edges. I also added a 2x2 ceder spacer (34" long) block for tire to rest on. Test fit was perfect. Spent the rest of the day getting the 1" closed cell rigid foam in place from the rear to the new cross member. I have a small Japanese pull saw that makes quick work of the cutting.