Thanks
I just ran across a new loctite (green 294) that the page says prevent corrosion - it appear to have wicking property's so probably a mess to use overhead https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...adlockers.html.

Now having thought about is I Know I will be driving on roads with salt/mag-chloride sometime, so I am back to stainless steel. Also if I may disagree with you the frame is probably subject to vibration/shock due to suspension travel and road roughness. also air traveling across the coroplast makes it flop and stress the connections. I have had to modify my back up lights attachment as they came loose - added blue loctite and problem was solved. I also looked at the old screws that held the rear jacks - pretty corroded and they were zink plated

Thanks for the help
Keith

Keith,

No problem. How many fasteners vibrated out after your Alaska trip? This could be a good indicator to help to determine what you need. From the video I have under my rig, the coroplast is not moving. Spring hangers? That's another story.

Jim

A few were no longer snug but none had backed out. It was the back up light aiming hex head screws that got loose. The others that loosed up a lot held the scissor jack mounting plate.

Keith

The wicking Loctite would be used on assembled screws. We used it afterwards if we forgot to use Loctite before assembling screws.

Ok new question. I was looking on https://www.mcmaster.com and several other venders and the different stainless steels that popped up for bolts I will list them in what I think is strength order.
18-8 - common a lot of places to get
316 - stronger and more corrosion resistant - a bit more money, at roughly 2x the 8-18 price but not beyond budget
410 - appear to be tougher and can be heat treated - they list this material for self tapping bolts.
450 high strength Grade 9 steel equivalent - I did not know theses existed and I don't think I need this strong - larger sizes too.
There are other grades out there too, but the above are most common

So going stainless steel and assuming I pre-tap all holes I was going to get the 1/4"x 20 3/4'long 18-8. This also gives me common lengths for other projects.I would get some corresponding nuts and washers (flat and lock)

Now to hold the new 1/2 by 1 1/2 1/8" thick angle iron cross members in place that the coroplast attaches to I was going to step up and use 316 grade stainless in 5/16"x18 3/4" long bolts. However Could I still use 1/4" in this tougher grade? That angle iron is a good amount of weight.

Last for on the road when I don't have my taps with me I was thinking of having some spare 1/4, 5/16 in 410 grade in the self taping https://www.mcmaster.com/self-tappin...ews-for-metal/

Note: So far McMaster-Carr is the only source for the 316 grade SS in the 1/4x20 that I have found, but still looking They also have the data sheets so I actually know what I am getting.

Are there any other size bolts and screws I should get for spares and maintenance like Visitor Messages through #12 screws for trim, etc. I lost the ones GD gave me when the storage box parted company on my Alaska trip.

No matter what I get I want a few spares with washers, etc

Thanks Keith

Lockwashers, spring washers are useless except for providing another washer in the stack. Nordlock washers would provide a better locking function. Good and tight is best for keeping screw joints tight.

Ted
You just had to make me look up NordLock washers. Looks like a serrated split washer (serration both sides with center seam or some sort).

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Not sure how they actually work work, but dang are they expensive

Thanks for teaching me something new. Now what was it I just forgot

Keith

The mating washer faces have ratchet-looking ramps that are greater than the screw thread pitch so as the screw tries to come loose the washers ramp up tighter under the screw head preventing loosening.

Those Nord lock are nice. The fine serrated bites into the head of the bolt and the larger washer to washer mating must be sized such that their pitch is more than the bolt. I think they are a bit costly due to having to get 2 washers for every connection and the stamping process.

I happen to have a bottle opener in my desk that they were giving out for a sample. Spin the wing nut too fast and have it get a little torque on it and you have to use a bit of force to get it off.

Thanks Ted - I still have the plusnuts fortunately.

Learned something new today. Thanks Ted. Like Keith, I had to google it. Got that "learn one thing a day" out of the way early...don't have to learn anything more today.

This thread really has me wondering how its possible that our rig has not had a single bolt fall out or even come loose since fall of 2016. Now all those stripped screws from manufacturing? There are plenty of those.

Jim

Getting them all properly tight to begin with explains that.

I have found that rust helps, too.

LOL
Almost everything is welded except for add on components such as jacks, bumpers. GD pretty much used galvanized or plated components - industry standard. I agree on the screws backing out being an issue. If striped, I up size and install with a dab of polyurethane wood glue on the screw tip. Theses seem to stay put. If not striped, I do the same or add silicone if I see water intrusion evidence.

The Coroplast self drilling screws that were used seem to hold, (some looseness on a few) but they also had sealing washers that seemed to coat the screw and make things stick. I don't plan on re-using or getting the self drilling screws. Most all of the screws/bolts I have taken off due show corrosion or some type (rust, oxidation).
Rust is a good thread locker/welding agent - ask about my 50 year old hay equipment.

Keith