I had an aftermarket LineX spray-in box liner in the 2014 F150, which is still wearing well and looking good. (my son now has this truck). I have the factory spray-in liner in the new truck (picture in post #40) which looks to be a very similar product.

Moving the hitch aft with the slider is definitely only for maneuvering. I am sure that I could turn 90* and clear the cab . . . but, I would not do that unless it was some sort of emergency. I can connect to the trailer at about 30 degrees (which suits my driveway at home) with the tailgate open. Another benefit of the manual slider is trailer response when backing. With the hitch behind the axle, the trailer begins to turn as soon as the truck is turned . . . much like a bumper pull trailer. With the hitch over the rear axle, it takes a lot more truck angle to get the 5th wheel trailer turning.

I have room for a couple of large totes in front of the hitch with the short box (in either truck). I suppose a toolbox could go there but I have never done this. With the diesel, I do carry a jug of DEF in one of those totes. This is also where I carry jacks and blocking for lifting the trailer, if needed.

Rob

TedS Ted by the looks of it that is the low profile one. I have the full profile.

3"


vs: 5-3/4"

That should have read - isn't the point to have the load directly over the rear axle while towing OR an inch or two forward (regardless of whether goose/5th wheel. If you go behind the axle, the weight will lift the front end more as well, reduced steering, breaking, etc.

Exactly. Going for the increased distance while hitching or unhitching (maybe - no purchases have been made!) I don't think with an 8' bed the slider would be needed for tight maneuvering.

That's a helpful tip for me....thank you!

Ouch - point taken.

I did not realize this about the 5th wheel setup...thank you!

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Hopefully have an appointment to actually see a GMC 3500 shortly! More to come on this thread!

Took some pictures today of how a manual slider hitch provides a lot more benefit that just cab clearance in a tight turn. Clearance between open tailgate and front of 5th wheel (while hitching) is significantly increased. It suits my home RV location to be able to hitch/unhitch at about 30*. At this angle, I still have several inches between the open tailgate and the RV. I can even open the trailer front compartment at this angle. When ready to tow, I move the slide lever, manually apply the trailer brakes, back the truck until the hitch locks in the tow position . . . and we are ready to go. Something to consider when selecting a hitch . . .

Rob

Manual Slider Hitch.pdf

Check with State Farm. When I check it depended on usage to them. For me as a personal pickup for towing it was the same based on costs as my F350 came out

As for the OEM companion I went with the 25K puck system and yes there is a goose neck ball hole included in the center with the 5th wheel prep system. The B&W hitch has performed flawless with no noise or bucking or chucking over the EXTREME road conditions I have had on the Alaska trip. I did adjust the lock down clamps at Homer in my normal checks - just assumed it was normal break in. It was a very slight tightening of the puck handle castle nuts.
Keith

Thanks for the pictures! How are you manually engaging trailer breaks? Emergency break pin on trailer?

I think I have decided against a gooseneck hitch for a more traditional 5th wheel hitch. I like that the bed is empty, but do not want to put additional stress on the trailer frame or have the possibility of the manufacturer voiding my warranty.

Thank you - will do.

All trailer brake controllers have a means to manually apply the trailer brakes. Does your F150 not have one of these to the lower right of the steering wheel ?

Rob

It does. I thought that's what you meant...I just wanted to make sure. FYI - if you are not in Drive and/or maybe moving and you push the brakes on your truck...the trailer brakes will not engage. You have to use the trailer brake control to engage them in that situation.

Is anyone using DC to DC charging from their truck to their rig? Are you using Uplifter switches to do so?

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters

Have been digging into the RAM and the GMC more. The GMC with Denali seems to be a better comparison to the Ford's. Trying to get in to look at one. I was able to look at an F-350 Lariat long bed 4x4 Crew this week. So far - the price per feature value aspect is leaning in Ford's direction. GMC's website has a ton more options, but they are garbage - aftermarket stuff that I don't need to see when building a truck. Not sure if anyone cares for the analysis...but can try to post some more thoughts too....going through an extremely detailed comparison right now.

A few of us do. I know howson and I (both Ford) have them and have them run through the upfitters. WondersAwait Has one on his GM via his upfitters as well. Country Campers and Guest have the 20A version connected via their 7 way (no upfitters). Honestly while I like having them I would not consider it a make or break. The Renogy DC to DC is easy enough to connect to a switched signal, if you did not have upfitters you could figure something out.

Also David (@wondersawait) added his GM upfitters himself since his truck did not come with them, I feel like he said it was an easy enough install.

bellis -- see https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...e-battle-borns (sorry, it's a long thread...learned a lot in the process and documented it all)

My truck came with the option but GM was shipping them as an owner install option; basically the switches were installed in the dash and they gave you all the pieces but you have to install all the wires yourself. It wasn't difficult but it was a tedious job and I wish they would have just put them in at the factory. If anyone needs to do this job, there's an excellent thread on the GM-Trucks message board which has step by step walk-through of putting these in yourself on the 2020+ GM HD trucks; it made the job way easier to follow someone else's guidance.

This is true. The reason is that sitting in traffic with your foot on the brake or crawling along, you don't need the trailer brakes engaged. Either electric drum of EoH disc.

Rob

Good thread. I did notice two things not discussed here that figured into my recent decision on what truck to buy.

First, is availability. There are not a lot of trucks on the lots right now. I looked at dealers for GMC, Ford and Chevy and even independent dealers for 250 miles and picking were scares. I ended up with a "slightly used" 2021 F250, with less than 7,000 miles on it, and it was at a RAM dealer. I figured how bad could it have been used. they dealer told me that the first owner upgraded to a RAM dually for the heavy horse trailer.

Second is price. I chose a XLT short bed, but it had the B&H turnover ball all ready installed. The prices on the top models are more then $20K more than I paid. That was my CFO's deciding factor right then and there. I doubt even after availability gets back to "normal" that the prices will drop back to pre-pandemic levels. Yes I miss the dual temp controls. This truck as the 7.3 gas Godzilla motor. At a $1/gallon more for diesel, this also made more sense to my CFO. I think that all comes out in the wash. The big diesel will get more unloaded MPG.

On the SRW/DRW line of discussion I had a 2013 F350 SRW LB, and a 40' toy hauler 5er. I felt the truck getting pushed by the trailer in cross winds. It felt like a travel trailer when an 18 wheeler blows by. I would strongly recommend a dually for a larger heaver trailer.

I also got the B&W slider hitch. Haven't used the slider yet. But, I think I will need it to back into my driveway. Sure don't want to bang the trailer in to the back window!