Coroplast aka Corrugated Plastic Sheeting Underbelly Material Replacement

[acoleman43]

X2. The bracket can be canted to install it and its securely bolted into the web.

Jim

Can also be welded for those of us who don't like to drill holes in frames.

[TedS]

Use a flange clamp and pipe. No drilling.

[Yoda]

I made crossbars from 1" x 2" thin wall rectangular tube with plates welded across the ends of the tube that then bolt to the inside of the frame rails. I friction fit 1" rigid foam insulation between these crossbars and held this in place with twist tabs on the crossbars. All of this is above the coroplast. These cross bars provided lots of places to secure the coroplast where needed.

Under the tanks, there is not room for crossbars and 1" insulation. I have flat bar (factory installed) from crossbars forward and aft of the tank, in addition to the upper "T" support method. This flat bar will offer some support to the tank but will flex as the tank sags . . . maybe not a bad thing?

Rob

Rob
You just solved my problem on holding the foam in place and the idea of using flat bar stock under the tanks. I think I have enough existing cross members to attach to, so hopefully I wont need to add any as I don't weld and the folks that do want gold as payment.

JCR GD Thanks for the pictures - now that I see what you did I like the clean look. - Thanks


Thanks again for the help folks

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Keith, being in the south, you may need to "foam" the ends of the angle iron to help minimize the flying bugs from making a home in there.

[Yoda]

Update
RecPro sent me a sample of thier product. It looks Good https://www.recpro.com/1-8-extreme-d...erial-74-wide/ Same product here but wider https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Corrug...25&sr=8-2&th=1

Being the engineer I am I dissected it. One side has reflective foil the is bonded to the Coroplast. The Coroplast is different that what I currently have in the inner body consists of bubbles (think of bubble wrap compressed between two layers). The stuff seam tough too. Water can still get between the layers, but less easily and I plan to seal the edges with gorilla tape before install. Doing this will reinforce the connection points too.

Pictures


Foil backing is bonded to the base coroplast. Second photo is of the other side - it slightly different looking than the golf ball dimpled photo on RecPro site, but I believe it due to my high altitude and the air in the bubbles expanding a bit.

I pulled it apart - pretty tough stuff. Inner bubble membranes is sandwiched between to equal outer layers.


Close view of each side of the bubble layer. When sealed the bubbles are air tight. Water can get between the bubbles in the small irregular channels. These are much smaller than the stock material. I believe this product while have some insulating property's over the stock corrugated stuff I have now.



to be continued

[TedS]

Yoda, have you asked Tarpley if they carry the corrugated plastic? Have you looked at Recla Metals steel supply?

[Yoda]

Yoda, have you asked Tarpley if they carry the corrugated plastic? Have you looked at Recla Metals steel supply?

Tarply is getting a price form GD - but I have not heard back since last week. So they may have forgotten. I forgot about Recla metals for the bracing, but Cal steel which is closer has what I need normally in stock.

Thanks for the tips.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

If RecPro is used on any OEM applications, it might be worth your while to surf the forum of those trailers to see how it holds up.

[Jlawles2]

Keith, I got to thinking (I know this is a BAD IDEA).

What if you were to make smaller sections of the under belly liner and put back to back angles with the legs down and together? Then you could fasten the liner to the top of the angles and out 3-4 bolts between the legs of the angles. This lets you make the liner in smaller easy to handle sections where you can drop only the section where you may need to perform some type of maintenance.

[Yoda]

Keith, I got to thinking (I know this is a BAD IDEA).

What if you were to make smaller sections of the under belly liner and put back to back angles with the legs down and together? Then you could fasten the liner to the top of the angles and out 3-4 bolts between the legs of the angles. This lets you make the liner in smaller easy to handle sections where you can drop only the section where you may need to perform some type of maintenance.

I like the way your mind works

Keith

[Yoda]

Now for the OEM coroplast as a compareson. this material was installed at the factory in 2017 and has seen about 12K miles on the road.

First I cut a sample the exact size of the RecPro material. OEM - 3/8oz, RecPro is slightly thinner, but surprising tougher - I could not separate the layers.


Edge view of OEM Chanel's run full with Second photo is inside (side towards trailer)


This is the side exposed to the roadway. Note the divots and small holes for debris impacts.

Side by side comparison, RecPro top and OEM bottom.

I am going to look for more sources - right now I don't think the RecPro is what I really want to use.

Keith

On edit I just found this source of what looks like OEM and I asked for a sample https://factoryrvsurplus.com/collect...32036374904925

[Country Campers]

They do make a "T" shaped angle instead of using 2 angles side by side. This has me curious as well and may be a winter project. I have found some in aluminum and steel, I would opt for the steel version.

Here is one I found metals | McMaster-Carr

Brian

[Yoda]

They do make a "T" shaped angle instead of using 2 angles side by side. This has me curious as well and may be a winter project. I have found some in aluminum and steel, I would opt for the steel version.

Here is one I found metals | McMaster-Carr

Brian

Pricy - you can probably find 2 angles cheaper..

[Yoda]

Update
I just got a surprise call from my dealer (Tarply) it appear they can get the material for 1/2 or what the internet is (under $100 for what I need). I am going to swing by tomorrow and check to see if it is the same as what I have, Comes wider than I need, but I can easily trim.

Ill update when I know
Keith.

[Jlawles2]

Country Campers Brian, the idea of using 2 pcs of angle is so that you can have a seam in the coroplast. With each section attached to 1 piece, it has center securement and is segmented in places where you need to be able to gain access. Also smaller pieces are easier to deal with when it comes to removal and replacement.