Coroplast aka Corrugated Plastic Sheeting Underbelly Material Replacement

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Never used a slide rule, but that thing looks quite involved.

It sure does!

[howson]

Well, since this thread is so far OT I'll pile on (I'm a lousy moderator, eh?) -- slide rule below was given to me by my grandfather who was an engineer at DuPont for decades. No idea how to use it, lol.

[Country Campers]

Moderator Note: Please stay on topic.

I have plenty of slide rules, never used them. I have plenty of speed/feed slides for work, never use them. I just use a pencil and paper, using so many formulas for years they are engraved in my mind, well at least the ones I can remember.

Brian

[Yoda]

Moderator Note: Please stay on topic.

I have plenty of slide rules, never used them. I have plenty of speed/feed slides for work, never use them. I just use a pencil and paper, using so many formulas for years they are engraved in my mind, well at least the ones I can remember.

Brian

Thanks Brian - those pictures were bringing back college nightmares - but it was mindful of a difficult, but fun time long past....just remember folks use slide rule accuracy and you will be OK.

However to put this to rest when we all got our HP21's with the trig functions (more than half the class bought them) , the professor would not let us initially use them until we proved thier accuracy, so 12 of us spent all night going though the Std trig book to verify the tables - we found an error in the book . Professor Boles was impressed and from then on we were OK to use them. That was the morning I learned to love coffee. BTW he was lightning fast using his round slide rule and was always spot on (skinny tie, white shirt and socks, black suite, black skinny pants to the ankles. shinny shoes, and pocket protector with only pencils. A great friend too.

Now where were we.....yep that black corrugated stuff we all love to work with.

BTW - in looking at my underbelly pictures I believe I have two slightly bowed cross members - Ill double check tomorrow. I just could be the camera though.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Moderator Note: Please stay on topic.

Well that pic Howard posted up shows that even though it is off topic...it is still 'Technical'... ,,,,,,,Appears TOO technical for me anyway

[Country Campers]

Well that pic Howard posted up shows that even though it is off topic...it is still 'Technical'... ,,,,,,,Appears TOO technical for me anyway

I agree, way too technical! Maybe I will get out one of my slide rules, if I can find one, and learn how to use it,probably not though.

Brian

[Guest]

OK lets get back on topic.

Jim

[Yoda]

Customer Service at factoryrvsurplus.com got back to me with a better picture than thier web page. It appears to be the correct coroplast. Thoughts?



I may give them a call as it might be possible to save 5% as I am a small business owner too. I had a requested a sample, but no mention in thier reply.

Keith

[Yoda]

Keith, I got to thinking (I know this is a BAD IDEA).

What if you were to make smaller sections of the under belly liner and put back to back angles with the legs down and together? Then you could fasten the liner to the top of the angles and out 3-4 bolts between the legs of the angles. This lets you make the liner in smaller easy to handle sections where you can drop only the section where you may need to perform some type of maintenance.

OK folks Thanks to Joseph here and as it is snowing and as my high teck furnace has quit (plumber just out, parts on order) I decided to do something fun and dangerous

The question is where to section the coroplast using Josephs angle iron idea. My thought so far. Photos mentioned are in this thread https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...flection-220rk

Section one - from rear to just behind the rear hanger. First two photos in post Home This will cover the back gray tanks area and the spare tire section. I would probably add an angle iron over the cross member where the wire bundle runs to support sag.

BTW - note the slight bow in the cross member in photo two just behind the rear hanger.

Section two. From rear axle rear hanger to front axle behind the front hanger. This will cover the fresh water tank area. Photos 3 and 4 post 1


I also found the removable c-channel cross member that holds the water tank in place slightly bowed. Picture two above

Section 3. This will be the area of the black and gray tank plumbing. from the area just behind the front hanger to the middle of the tanks if they don hang below the frame. or to just forward of the tank connections in the last photo above. This section could also run to the front.

Section 4 last section from the tanks fitting of section 3 to the trailer front.

This is the area. If possible I may add an extra sag brace across the tank area, but I need to verify the tanks dont sit below the frame. I am wanting to have the crack repair folks extend the 2x2 tubing that under the suspension full length to and across the front both sides. if this is done I can add insulation under the tanks

I was going to use 1" by 1.5" angle or 1.5 by 1.5 to have plenty of room for the seam bolting across the 1.5" flat. I will probably measure and predrill. Where the cross member attached to the flange it either one bolt through the outer flange, or two - one inner and one outer angle iron thickness could be 1/8 or 1/4. Thoughts?

Well now to get a fire built in the wood stove to heat the house and keep SWMBO happy.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Keith, be sure to clamp the angles together then to a board or something to keep the aligned and high enough for the drill press (hope you have one for that many holes). This ensures the angles align. I never seem to have luck measuring and drilling.

Sorry to give you such a horrendous idea to make the coroplast sectioned and easy to remove.

[Yoda]

Keith, be sure to clamp the angles together then to a board or something to keep the aligned and high enough for the drill press (hope you have one for that many holes). This ensures the angles align. I never seem to have luck measuring and drilling.

Sorry to give you such a horrendous idea to make the coroplast sectioned and easy to remove.

And now you go and make me spend more money...$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I don't have a drill press, but it would sure be nice for this - Hmmmmm I have time - maybe Christmas or a Black Friday steel? . Do they make a good table top model that can handle say a 1/2" drill bit for steel, or should I get one with a full height stand?

Boy the things I get into.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

I don't think they make a "cheap" 1/2" chuck one.

This one has a MT2 so upgrading to 1/2" may not hurt too much. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ess-38142.html

https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...-2-x-20/t10082 plus https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...uck-45731.html

[Yoda]

I don't think they make a "cheap" 1/2" chuck one.

This one has a MT2 so upgrading to 1/2" may not hurt too much. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ess-38142.html

https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...-2-x-20/t10082 plus https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...uck-45731.html

The HF one has the chuck capacity I need - now to find a 25% off coupon. (Drill chuck capacity7/64′′ to 5/8′′)

[Ray&KatinCR]

The HF one has the chuck capacity I need - now to find a 25% off coupon. (Drill chuck capacity7/64′′ to 5/8′′)

I've go both a bench top and a floor standing models both purchased from HF. purchased about 5 years ago not sure (CRS) They both came with a 1/2" chuck. unless they changed things up since then.

[TedS]

Yoda, is it even necessary to bolt the angle iron together, back to back?