Coroplast aka Corrugated Plastic Sheeting Underbelly Material Replacement

[Yoda]

Yoda, is it even necessary to bolt the angle iron together, back to back?

Probably not, but I was going to put a strip of foam between then to make it water tight, thus the need for at least 3 bolts to hold them together. But I could just clamp them together before drilling the flange at the end to hold them snug together.

[Jlawles2]

Yoda Keith, drill a hole, insert bolt, move to next and repeat. Use the smallest bit possible when initially drilling until you get all of the holes in it, Then go clamp and drill the flange on the trailer. Finally remove all the bolts and drill out to the next larger size for assembly ease.

Do they need to be bolted together, possibly not, however as mentioned, allows for a tight seal using foam or other. Also the angles bolted together will have more resistance to sag due to weight and vacuum as the air rushes under the trailer during towing.

Also since the coroplast will be fixed to the angles, this allows for helping to tighten the coroplast.

[Yoda]

OK
New question. If during my frame repair the trailer gets the 2x2 sub-framed I can run 1" to 1.5" maybe even 2" thick closed cell foam (blue sheets, or pink) insulation sheets side to side over everything, including the tanks. I can seal the sheet seams with Gorilla tape and probably the edges too, or Tyvek the entire belly before the coroplast . How important is it in this situation to replace the foil barrier that came from GD? I still have it, but some areas are pretty rough, but can probably repair with foil tape. I was going to use double face tape tabs on the cross members to to prevent sagging before the coroplast install.

Thoughts?

To hold the sheet in place on the side of the 2x2 channel I think I have some scrap light gauge thickness L channel from the garage metal window trim. I though of making 6" long clips and attaching to the side of the 2x2 with a few rivets. Thoughts? Otherwise I can make the swivel tabs as Rob did and install on the surface edges, but I am concerned about the fastener interfering with a tight fit of the coroplast. Again any thought on this?

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Keith, are you thinking something like this: https://eagle-aluminum.com/product/a...r-34-material/

[Yoda]

Keith, are you thinking something like this: https://eagle-aluminum.com/product/a...r-34-material/

No - for the cross beams to hold the coroplast sections they will be 1/2 by 1 or 1.5 (by 1/8 thick) set back to back with the long leg flat to secure the coroplast too. The material I was hoping to hold the foam board in place along the frame edge is more like J or L channel. I think it looks something like this only painted and solid for doing trim work on metal buildings https://www.homedepot.com/p/ClarkDie...2321/100319045.

However this wold work too to make clips if what I have wont. Use the holes to mount it to hold the foam board in place. Its also galvanized. Hmmmm

Thoughts?

[Jlawles2]

Ideally if he could weld some H section like that aluminum then you slide the panels into it.

The thing I see with L welded to the bottom of the frame is you loose the connection for multiple panels easily unless they overlap. What about small Tee sections? Something like this: https://dmsteel.com/products/hot-rol...EaAlqkEALw_wcB that gives you the ability to attach multiple sections.

[Yoda]

Ideally if he could weld some H section like that aluminum then you slide the panels into it.

The thing I see with L welded to the bottom of the frame is you loose the connection for multiple panels easily unless they overlap. What about small Tee sections? Something like this: https://dmsteel.com/products/hot-rol...EaAlqkEALw_wcB that gives you the ability to attach multiple sections.

The clips to hold the foam in place wont be welded. just screwed in so they can be removed if needed. It.s only really a temporary hold until the coroplast is secured. I may not even use screws as double face tape should be strong enough for a temporary hold.

Keith

[Yoda]

The HF one has the chuck capacity I need - now to find a 25% off coupon. (Drill chuck capacity7/64′′ to 5/8′′)

OK update on the new tool needed to complete the coroplast repairs as I am going to do the sections and have a lot of repetitive holes to drill and tap.

Harbor Freight was a complete bust on sales on "ANY" drill press and after talking to the Farmington store they doubt there will be any due to stock shortage, the Big 20% or the rare 25% coupons may be a thing of the past in favor of the specific item discounts. Also non of the BB stores or other places carry anything. Soooooooooo

I went back to the reviews and ran across WEN - same company makes Delta/Jet and others - even looks like the simulacra Jet model https://www.amazon.com/Jet-716000-JW...2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 .

There were a lot of top picks for this model 4214 https://wenproducts.com/collections/...ill-press-4214 The 4214T is different so be careful. 3/4 hp motor (most are 1/2 or less), good table with extension, variable speed (no belts to change). digital readout, and lights - both laser and work light. It's only a 12" swing table top model, but should fit my work area perfectly. A lot of great reviews too. On sale with free shipping and no tax at $240 and in stock. I also picked up the cheap drill press vice https://wenproducts.com/collections/...ill-press-vise. I just need something to hold the 1 by 1.5 angle iron in place. Reviews are generally good. BTW WEN customer service actually answers thier phones - I tested. Parts are available too.

Did I go wrong on this?

Keith

[TedS]

It should all work. To hold the angle iron while being drilled, make a wood piece to clamp the angle's vertical flange tight to the vice face. You can drill through the wood to drill the angle iron flange.

[howson]

Yoda

Another favorite YouTube channel of mine is a woman who can build seemingly anything. The channel is her name, April Wilkerson. In a recent video she showed a magnetic holder for a drill press and I immediately thought of you. The tool is crazy expensive, but since one of our favorite hobbies here on this forum is spending other people's money I couldn't help but post about it.



You can see April using the adapter at the 1:28 mark in the video below.

The tool itself is here: https://mag-tools.com/products/drill...2b67169f&_ss=r

You're welcome.

Howard

[Yoda]

You're welcome.

I don't know Howard. Does SWMBO know you watch such stuff ????????????????? Its getting scary the things you are reveling about yourself

As for the magnetic base - how do you clean it? I have enough trouble with my clean up magnets. BTW on YouTube person demonstrating the WEN said to attached a magnet to the underside of the drill press table to catch the filings, then remove the magnet to clean up the mess. Are you going to add a flip around shelf somewhere in your rig?

I guess hobby shows are like cooking shows - they get addictive but I believe there is a 12 step program for that

Happy Holidays
Keith

BTW My WEN odder has already shipped

[TedS]

Use an electromagnet. Turn it off to drop the chips.

[Cate&Rob]

Use an electromagnet. Turn it off to drop the chips.

This is a great idea. A spare brake magnet (I happen to have several ) on a 12V power supply would work.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

If you choose to use a standard magnet, put it in a ziplock type bag, to clean invert the bag and remove the magnet. chips stay in the bag and the magnet is clean.

[Yoda]

If you choose to use a standard magnet, put it in a ziplock type bag, to clean invert the bag and remove the magnet. chips stay in the bag and the magnet is clean.

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why did I not think of that - I can use cling kitchen plastic wrap on my big cleaning magnet Genius Joseph

Keith