Grand Design's use of pin nailers - trim falling off everywhere!

[JBill9694]

I've also used paneling nails. I like to pre-drill for the nails to avoid splitting the trim. This also helps if the stud I'm nailing into is aluminum instead of wood.

[drifterranch]

Late to the conversation but I have also had the pleasure of reattaching many trim pieces. All the way through the coach. from the front nose closet, to the latest thing to pull part or come off, the paneling around the couch. We do not boondock either and other than national or state parks stay on the pavement. I am using glue to reattach along with re nailing.

[dali]

Update: Dealer "repaired" LOL, moved unit 30 miles and it fell off again. I give up.. I will repair myself and use something like liquid nails to make sure it doesn't come down again.
I just did my first walk through of my new Reflection 315rlts and this piece of trim is also falling off. Not only did the pin nails fail but I also feel that the trim is just a bit too long.

[Yoda]

GDRV-Megan

Good morning Megan.

Can you please find out what type/brand of pin nails are being used (they are not equal from my experience). Longer is not always better as they can wonder, U-turn, and split wood. If you switched to a glue coated pin nail such as this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Freeman-...23-1/203502977 I think most of your problems would go away. There are stainless steel versions too that would be even better, also ones with slight ridges (ring shank) along the shank. From the pictures it appears you using plain pin nails as they are very clean when pulled out.

I am not a wood working expert, but have picked up a few tips here and there. On one of my previous houses I had to have cabinets repaired and the carpenter used SS glue coated pin nails to put the joint back together. He used the stainless steel as other types rusted from high kitchen humidity . Later we did a small remodel to add a built in microwave and I could not get the repaired pin nailed joints to come apart.

Also air pressure is critical as you mentioned. For controlling pressure at the gun, there exist gun mounted pressure regulators such as this https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.co...egulators.aspx That way you an set the compressor high for multiple folks use and set each gun for the task at hand and adjust on the fly as needed.

Hope this helps

Keith Ill run off to my corner now

[Jlawles2]

Pin nails should be used as an Aide for glue curing, or to hold non structural things.

Keith as you state not all nails are the same. Back doing cabinet work professionally, pin nails were used on repair jobs for small pieces of non stressed trim. trying to hold together a full set of kitchen or bath cabinets with pin nails and no glue always resulted in going back out to do repair work.

GD needs to look at a few of their cabinet construction methods. Islands especially, the failing toe board / bottom shelf / sides is a big deal. In my Reflection, the drawer to under cabinet divider was pulled loose due to the staples pulling through the ultra thin material. Simple fix was to add a backer strip of material to take the stress off the staple heads and thin material trying to hold the staples.

[dhorneut]

I bought my 240ML XPLOR in May; been out 2 times; and the trim is bowing on the slideout and separating in the ceiling in multiple places. The cabinet door cannot open all the way above the table because it hits the separated trim. I love the trailer; especially the floor plan; but this is a serious flaw in construction. I am not a happy camper as this latest separation has only occurred while the trailer has been parked at my house for the last two weeks. How long do I wait before I call GD? I havn't been impressed with the dealer's service as they have already screwed up on delivery. Did I mention that when I brought the trailer home the first time and checked the grey tank valve that there was a wooden cutout from the frame lodged in the tank opening that kept the valve from closing; when the dealer supposedly fixed it they didn't seal it completely so now it leaks. I expect maintenance over time; but within the first 30 days?

[TucsonJim]

I bought my 240ML XPLOR in May; been out 2 times; and the trim is bowing on the slideout and separating in the ceiling in multiple places. The cabinet door cannot open all the way above the table because it hits the separated trim. I love the trailer; especially the floor plan; but this is a serious flaw in construction. I am not a happy camper as this latest separation has only occurred while the trailer has been parked at my house for the last two weeks. How long do I wait before I call GD? I havn't been impressed with the dealer's service as they have already screwed up on delivery. Did I mention that when I brought the trailer home the first time and checked the grey tank valve that there was a wooden cutout from the frame lodged in the tank opening that kept the valve from closing; when the dealer supposedly fixed it they didn't seal it completely so now it leaks. I expect maintenance over time; but within the first 30 days?

I'd give GDRV a call and see if they'll agree to let you use a mobile service provider.

[Andy Burns]

Late to the thread, and GD has approved warranty work, but no dealers have cabinetry guys!

Entertainment Center detaching from wall, multiple facia strip detachments and separating door jams and drawer unit.

[BR549]

We use real wood trim pieces, not MDF trim pieces. The problem that we run into is that sometimes the nail is going through a piece of trim and a 1/8" of lauan (lauan is laminated onto aluminum). The nail has to go through a solid piece of trim, a solid piece fo lauan and then the aluminum that's stuffed with wood. It's difficult to set the guns at the right pressure because not every place has aluminum stuffed with wood. The nail doesn't have a big head so it shoots all the way in. The guns need different sets of pressure depending on where the trim is located.

What I have heard from other customers that they are doing is getting double-sided tape (or running a little bit of glue on the backside) and stapling it back up.

The plant does a very good job of installing the trim pieces, but with the units rolling down the road, temperature/climate change, humidity change, all these play a role as well. I hope this helps! Please let me know if I can help with anything else!

I found this comment from GDRV while searching for solutions to the issues I’m having with a NEW 2022 280RS. I understand that road vibrations, temperature, and humidity have an effect on RVs, but shouldn’t the manufacturer have the materials, technology, and manufacturing systems in place to account for those variables more than what owners are experiencing?

Add to this excuse that the Furrion refrigerator manual advises against traveling with food items in the refrigerator; a dealer’s technician tells me that a door that won’t close isn’t a concern because it closed when the trailer was parked in their shop and was perfectly level; and a Lippert camera will only connect to the dealer’s monitor in their shop but not to my phone when I’m actually backing the trailer makes the statement that GDRV does a good job so the problem is how owners use them seem a little disingenuous.

No one expects these things to be built to survive battlefield conditions, but a little less time gluing, stapling, and nailing things back together after a 200 mile drive would be nice.

[TedS]

There is a depth adjustment on the pin nailer meant to control the drive depth. You typically don't adjust air pressure up and down on pneumatic nailers. I don't totally buy the GD response.

[Jlawles2]

TedS Ted, depending on the hardness of the materials and the size of the pin nailer, adjusting depth only may not be enough to control depth. More than likely they are trying to avoid having to turn down the air pressure in the entire system vs using gun mounted regulators to bring the pressure into the "range" required by the gun. From experience trying to regulate the entire system can create issues in other areas.

Simple preset tool mounted regulators can also get in the way so a swivel would be advisable https://www.mcmaster.com/miniature-a...ent~regulator/ and https://www.eastwood.com/dynabrade-1...ce=google&wv=4

[Guest]

An adhesive backing along with the pin nailer would be ideal in having a permanent solution. Peel and stick and nail it in. They would still need to adjust properly. I bonded my loose trim with dabs of silicone then used my pin nail gun to hold the trim in place. It will never fall off.

Jim

[TedS]

I used cabinet screws to reattach trim after doing a slide drive repair. It's not going to fall off and easily removed if necessary.

[Yoda]

GDRV-Megan
Just an update to this thread. Megan - please discuss with you cabinet folks the flimsy supporting structure that they have used to support the pantry shelves and cabinet back supports. They should know better than using partial board supports in stress locations, These need to be solid wood or even better plywood supports. On My Alaska trip I had the single floor support on the PANTRY cabinet fail (At least 3 are needed per shelf, not just 1/2 by 1/2 support stapled in place., not just one) The only thing in the cupboard above were pots and pans - All can good were on the floor or under the bed. The left drawer rear assembly also failed as the rear support gave way - also a flimsy 1/2 by 1/2 partial board strap with a single screw into the floor which pulled out. I replace it 1/2 by 2 inch maple and it has held up well.

Also I notice at least a 6" gap behind the drawers, this is wasted space. Please consider using longer dawres and using the back wall as the support - stronger and less wasted space. This will be my next modification to make the unit Alaska proof.

The good news is this is one tough unit to only have these two problems. I am having the lower trim piece on the slide floor coming loose - again only random pin nails and no glue. In this case screws should have been used. I'll post on the fix later.

Keith

[Paul and judy]

My molding on the Dinning room slide it in my 310 has fallen off twice now. First time I did it was under warranty and now I want to fix it myself. I did notice that there are only nails along the bottom of the molding and none at the top. Does anybody know why that would be? I am going to use Brad nails and some no more nails glue to permanently install the molding and I’m just wondering if I can glue and nail at the top of the molding as well. Seems weird to me that they would put no nails at the top and I’m wondering if that has something to do with the way the slide operates. Any help or comments would be truly appreciated