Simplest Lithium Install

[Yoda]

Well this is why I'm thinking batteries and inverter in passthrough and just plug shore power cable directly to inverter. I imagine it would be the same as plugin into a regular 15 amp outlet. Can't run AC or any of the big stuff, but at least TV and outlets will all work. We just have to be mindful to turn off the converter when we switch to inverter power and not run too many things. If I sell it or trade it I can just pull out batteries and inverter and reconnect the stock battery.

To plug your 50 amp power cord into the inverter you will need one of those dog bone 30 to 50 adapters so it powers both sides of your 110 panel. Folks correct me if I am wrong here.

Stay safe

[dreamingat30fps]

To plug your 50 amp power cord into the inverter you will need one of those dog bone 30 to 50 adapters so it powers both sides of your 110 panel. Folks correct me if I am wrong here.

Stay safe

Hmmmm... I'm trying to think and I'm not sure I've ever hooked this rig up to a 110. I do remember hooking up our 2600rb to a 110 and having everything work, but that was a 30 amp rig. I'm hoping one of those 50 amp to 110 dog bones will do the same. If it only powers 1 leg that may be an issue. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Epicord-Adapt...721953515&th=1

[Yoda]

Hmmmm... I'm trying to think and I'm not sure I've ever hooked this rig up to a 110. I do remember hooking up our 2600rb to a 110 and having everything work, but that was a 30 amp rig. I'm hoping one of those 50 amp to 110 dog bones will do the same. If it only powers 1 leg that may be an issue. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Epicord-Adapt...721953515&th=1

That might work if you want to run a 15 amp extension cord from your inverter to your trailer, but will not allow you to plug your 50A power cord into the inverter from what I know about the plugs. Hopefully a better expert will come along.

[dreamingat30fps]

That might work if you want to run a 15 amp extension cord from your inverter to your trailer, but will not allow you to plug your 50A power cord into the inverter from what I know about the plugs. Hopefully a better expert will come along.

You could use the 50 amp cable with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Adapt...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

But honestly since the AC out on the inverter is 15 amps anyways it's probably easier to just pull out an extension cord from that hose hole in the pass through to that other adapter, easier than lugging the 50 amp cord for an overnight.

Actually I started thinking about the inverter/converters... I could have a completely stand alone and separate system... is this even close to right?



THIS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ9Z...nel=MattVerley

[howson]

You could use the 50 amp cable with something like this...

I started working on a similar drawing last night at work...hopefully I can finish it up later today and post it. Very basic, but given what you've already posted you'll understand immediately (I hope).

The issue with the current drawing in post 19 is the 12v circuits in your trailer will have to rely on the standard wet-cell battery for power. The way this is configured, the lithiums won't supply 12v and with the converter off neither will it. You must have 12v to run the refrigerator (on propane), heater, lights, water pump, etc.

More later...

[TucsonJim]

Hmmmm... I'm trying to think and I'm not sure I've ever hooked this rig up to a 110. I do remember hooking up our 2600rb to a 110 and having everything work, but that was a 30 amp rig. I'm hoping one of those 50 amp to 110 dog bones will do the same. If it only powers 1 leg that may be an issue. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Epicord-Adapt...721953515&th=1

That is the exact same dog bone adapter I used with my coach before adding a transfer switch. It worked perfectly and powered both lets of the 50 amp wiring. Just remember you're limited by the amount of total current your inverter and batteries can provide and you'll be fine.

[dreamingat30fps]

I started working on a similar drawing last night at work...hopefully I can finish it up later today and post it. Very basic, but given what you've already posted you'll understand immediately (I hope).

The issue with the current drawing in post 19 is the 12v circuits in your trailer will have to rely on the standard wet-cell battery for power. The way this is configured, the lithiums won't supply 12v and with the converter off neither will it. You must have 12v to run the refrigerator (on propane), heater, lights, water pump, etc.

More later...

Is that the case? I have a vague recollection of turning off the converter breaker while on shore power and still having lights and other 12v items work... could be wrong though. I will need to test this or maybe someone knows for sure, because I'm really liking the idea of a self contained system.

EDIT: Actually maybe I had removed the battery but still had the converter running.

[howson]

Is that the case? I have a vague recollection of turning off the converter breaker while on shore power and still having lights and other 12v items work... could be wrong though. I will need to test this or maybe someone knows for sure, because I'm really liking the idea of a self contained system.

EDIT: Actually maybe I had removed the battery but still had the converter running.

There's only two sources of 12v power as your trailer is currently configured: the battery or the converter. Assuming you will remove the wet-cell battery that came with your trailer when the lithiums are installed, the lithiums must be tied into the system somehow. Must (assuming no other battery for brakes are installed) because without 12v you won't have emergency brake actuator power while towing should the trailer separate from the tow vehicle.

[dreamingat30fps]

There's only two sources of 12v power as your trailer is currently configured: the battery or the converter. Assuming you will remove the wet-cell battery that came with your trailer when the lithiums are installed, the lithiums must be tied into the system somehow. Must (assuming no other battery for brakes are installed) because without 12v you won't have emergency brake actuator power while towing should the trailer separate from the tow vehicle.

And that's why I'm posting here... didn't even think about brakes and trailer lights.

I have a feeling in the end I'll end up getting a lock box in the stock placement and calling it a day.

[Second Chance]

Hmmmm... I'm trying to think and I'm not sure I've ever hooked this rig up to a 110. I do remember hooking up our 2600rb to a 110 and having everything work, but that was a 30 amp rig. I'm hoping one of those 50 amp to 110 dog bones will do the same. If it only powers 1 leg that may be an issue. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Epicord-Adapt...721953515&th=1

Just for clarification, both 30 amp and 50 amp RV electrical outlets are 120 volts AC. The former provides 120 volts AC, single phase, at 30 amps; the latter supplies 120 volts AC on two phases at 50 amps each (for a total of 100 amps to the RV on two legs). What you're calling "110" is actually 120 volts AC, single phase, and probably on a 15 or 20 amp breaker. When one uses the "dogbone" adapters, they merely adapt one connector configuration to another - they don't change the voltage or the amperage available from the source.

Rob

[howson]

dreamingat30fps

Frankly, it might be worth the trip to schedule an install from a good company like the one Keep Your Daydream (the YouTubers Marc and Trish) recommend, "Future Sales" in Elkhart. Future Sales is primarily focused on solar, but I'd bet they'd install a system like what you want. See https://www.keepyourdaydream.com/offgrid/ for more information.

But if you're determined to do this yourself...below is a non-comprehensive way I'd approach solving the requirement.

Note that the drawing does not cover everything required. There's a lot not covered (wire gauge size, etc.) I probably overlooked something important, so I invite other forum members to shoot holes in the setup. (I'm not an engineer, electrician or anything else. I'm an owner that's tinkered with this stuff so take my input with a large dose of skepticism.)

What I'm trying to show is what I think is the simplest possible configuration to get what you want while being fully functional. (The budget was never discussed...and since I'm a self-described Victron "fan boy" I've used their component in the drawing. I also realize you don't have Battle Born batteries but that's the picture I had!)

The Victron MultiPlus II GX is an inverter, charger, AND battery monitor all-in-one. You'll be able to configure and monitor using the VictronConnect app on your phone (assuming you have one). There are 3000VA and 5000VA versions, but with two batteries you'd want the 3000VA version...and even that's a stretch with only two batteries. https://www.victronenergy.com/invert...x#pd-nav-image

TO CHARGE BATTERIES
When a "standard" household outlet is available (there's usually one free on the pedestal at a campground) you'd plug in the Multiplus 120vAC input which would then charge the batteries. OEM converter must be off!

If a standard outlet wasn't available (so the Multiplus input is not plugged in to an external power source) but the RV is powered by a 50A (or 30A) RV outlet in a campground, you could turn on the OEM converter to charge the batteries. (Not ideal but it would work.)

120vAC TO CAMPER FROM INVERTER
On the "Power Center in a Box" there'd be a standard 30A RV outlet wired to the output of the inverter. Plug a 30a-50a adapter into it, then your RV power cable from it to the RV. You'd have to manually manage your power usage-with two batteries you'd max out at around 20 amps of 120vAC (good enough for the microwave) but only for short periods.

You'll have to do your homework on "amp hours" and how long batteries will last to really understand the capability vs expense of this system. Don't even think about running an air conditioner. You could get one to run, but not for long.

I'm sure this will generate a hundred follow-on questions. There's no shortcuts--to do this yourself it will require a lot of reading (and watching YouTube videos) to comprehend everything. Then there's all the tools and supplies.

Think about that trip to a good installer...might be worth it.

[dreamingat30fps]

dreamingat30fps

Frankly, it might be worth the trip to schedule an install from a good company like the one Keep Your Daydream (the YouTubers Marc and Trish) recommend, "Future Sales" in Elkhart. Future Sales is primarily focused on solar, but I'd bet they'd install a system like what you want. See https://www.keepyourdaydream.com/offgrid/ for more information.

But if you're determined to do this yourself...below is a non-comprehensive way I'd approach solving the requirement.

Note that the drawing does not cover everything required. There's a lot not covered (wire gauge size, etc.) I probably overlooked something important, so I invite other forum members to shoot holes in the setup. (I'm not an engineer, electrician or anything else. I'm an owner that's tinkered with this stuff so take my input with a large dose of skepticism.)

What I'm trying to show is what I think is the simplest possible configuration to get what you want while being fully functional. (The budget was never discussed...and since I'm a self-described Victron "fan boy" I've used their component in the drawing. I also realize you don't have Battle Born batteries but that's the picture I had!)

The Victron MultiPlus II GX is an inverter, charger, AND battery monitor all-in-one. You'll be able to configure and monitor using the VictronConnect app on your phone (assuming you have one). There are 3000VA and 5000VA versions, but with two batteries you'd want the 3000VA version...and even that's a stretch with only two batteries. https://www.victronenergy.com/invert...x#pd-nav-image

TO CHARGE BATTERIES
When a "standard" household outlet is available (there's usually one free on the pedestal at a campground) you'd plug in the Multiplus 120vAC input which would then charge the batteries. OEM converter must be off!

If a standard outlet wasn't available (so the Multiplus input is not plugged in to an external power source) but the RV is powered by a 50A (or 30A) RV outlet in a campground, you could turn on the OEM converter to charge the batteries. (Not ideal but it would work.)

120vAC TO CAMPER FROM INVERTER
On the "Power Center in a Box" there'd be a standard 30A RV outlet wired to the output of the inverter. Plug a 30a-50a adapter into it, then your RV power cable from it to the RV. You'd have to manually manage your power usage-with two batteries you'd max out at around 20 amps of 120vAC (good enough for the microwave) but only for short periods.

You'll have to do your homework on "amp hours" and how long batteries will last to really understand the capability vs expense of this system. Don't even think about running an air conditioner. You could get one to run, but not for long.

I'm sure this will generate a hundred follow-on questions. There's no shortcuts--to do this yourself it will require a lot of reading (and watching YouTube videos) to comprehend everything. Then there's all the tools and supplies.

Think about that trip to a good installer...might be worth it.

I see what you mean, but at that point I think the simplest solution, aside from putting new batteries in the stock location and ditch any inverter, would be to go back to the original plan. Just have the batteries inside, tied to the rv 12v and connected to a standard inverter, let the stock converter charge them when hooked up, turn it off and plug rv direct to inverter when boondocking. If I find the stock converter isnt up for the task I can replace with upgraded lithium one.

If I go that way the only thing I need to figure out is where to tie inside batteries to 12v. I don't think I would really want to run a cable all the way back to the front of the frame where stock cables go.

I think I can connect the battery positive to the cut off switch already in the wet bay no? Add a new breaker inside? Then negative not sure, may have to see if I can pull it out somewhere and connect it to the frame.

[howson]

If I go that way the only thing I need to figure out is where to tie inside batteries to 12v.

A good place to start is to map out the electrical in your camper, both DC and AC circuits, so you clearly understand what-goes-where. Each camper could be slightly different in their configuration, so it's incumbent on the owner to do their "homework".

[howson]

dreamingat30fps

You're right--the easiest will be to put the batteries on the tongue, replacing the wet-cell.

If you're not ready to make that decision, suggest researching the threads here on the forum (use "battery", "batteries", "OEM 12v wiring" or any other combo of words you can think of!) and you'll find a lot of reading. Not sure how to search? See https://gdrvowners.com/forum/gdrv4li...hing-the-forum

Here's a thread I started to address a very similar situation to yours: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...oem-12v-wiring If that thread is too complicated ("looks like a space station")...mounting the batteries on the tongue may be a good idea.

[dreamingat30fps]

Ok I'm just updating this in case someone sees it in the future. I went to the trailer again and did a more in depth look at the current wiring. I have determined it is a big cluster I don't want to deal with. Just removing the converter will be a pita because of the location and the fact that GD does 0 cable management. It's a disastrous tangled mess of cables back there making it very difficult to even get to the converter.

So my plan is basically the diagram howson posted above, however I will not tie it to the existing 12v system. The plan is to setup lithium with its own inverter/converter side passthrough strictly to give AC power when boon-docking for the night. I will keep the exiting stock battery at the tongue to power 12v items, if I find that's not cutting it I will use one of the lithiums on the tongue and keep the other inside with the inverter/converter just for AC power. I think this will work fine for us for now. A little work to setup by turning off stock converter and plugin in rv to inverter then reversing when on shore power.

Also going this route no work involved going back to stock setup and can take all the components to a new rig. Will also have everything needed for a "proper" install if we decide to keep this rig long term and can have a professional install it all.

Thanks everyone for your help!