DC - DC Charger Project

[ncitro]

Yoda looks great! A tip for not leaving sharp edges on zip ties. Use one of these to cut them rather than a write cutters and you'll have a nice smooth edge that won't cut or scratch you.

BOENFU 2 Pack 5in Small Wire Cutters Zip Tie Cutters Plastic Snips Jewelry, 3d Printer Clippers Model Snippers Precision Nippers Side Cutters Flush Cutters with Spring, Black https://a.co/d/fcbZJDQ

[Yoda]

At the bottom of the run the negative goes to the main negative buss bar (below my hand) and the positive swings right and loops up into my Victron Lynx Power In unit thst is connected directly to the batterys, just as the negative buss bare is. This way the BMV 712 will see the charge.



Next up was finding a place to exit the front bay and run the D+ wire to the clearance lights. The closest light is about centered on my unit. After poking around I found there was enough space beside the front jack to fit my loom with wire through it.

This is the back side of the clearance marker I taped into one of the green wires. You can see GD's splice connectors just viable in the foam, This is one time GD did not leave any slack so making the connection was tough. I tried to do a bulb crimp, but ended up using a Wago fitting - it worked well.

Starting at the charger I ran the loom withe 14 awg red D+ wire to the front of the bay and then towards the curb side and down the wall to the outside. To stare I out a jumper in to curt the charge rating to 30A to see how everything works. I thought it prudent to go slow at first.

[Yoda]

Just a shot of the loom and D+ wire penetrating the front bay beside the jack. I foamed this back closed when I was sure everything fit.

I then ran along the skirting back to the clearance marker. I again used the 3M squares and zip tied it in place. In addition I foamed a few spots too. The 3" aluminum angle in the picture is supporting the saddle box that I repaired . I did a writ up on this too.


This is the splice using the Wago connector. I added some silicone to the back side and taped it up for protection. Loom is zip tied to a handy propane line. Furnace and HWH are directly above. Not much slack to work with.

Well that it for the trailer side except for the temperature probe, now on to the truck.

[Yoda]

Yoda looks great! A tip for not leaving sharp edges on zip ties. Use one of these to cut them rather than a write cutters and you'll have a nice smooth edge that won't cut or scratch you.

BOENFU 2 Pack 5in Small Wire Cutters Zip Tie Cutters Plastic Snips Jewelry, 3d Printer Clippers Model Snippers Precision Nippers Side Cutters Flush Cutters with Spring, Black https://a.co/d/fcbZJDQ

Those look dangerous
I actually was using a dyke plier like this to cut them. https://www.grainger.com/product/2MU...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[ncitro]

Those look dangerous
I actually was using a dyke plier like this to cut them. https://www.grainger.com/product/2MU...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah that's what I used for my whole life until a few years ago I grabbed something like what I linked from one of my guys' bag on a job site. I asked him about it and he explained they're specifically made to angle right and get right up against the clasp on the zip tie to not leave a sharp edge. I promise once you try it you won't go back.

[Yoda]

OK lets discuss the truck side for a minute and please give me your opinion on this.

First do I really need a solenoid in the circuit connected to an up fitter switch? To have power to the bed plug for other uses like my air compressor, I would need to turn the truck on. If direct wired and fused (100A) it would always be hot, but protected. If I don't want to use the DC-DC charger I can just not plug it it. I could also just trip the Circuit breaker I put in at the trailer, but not sure if it would be a good thing to be powered up and no output connected.

Second bed connection. For now instead of the bulkhead fitting, I was just going to come through a hole and terminate with the booted Anderson connector as others have done. Is anyone having issues with this set up, such as having that connector get in the way?.

I am just short on time right now, but don't want to have a major redo if I change my mind. To use the bulkhead fitting I would just need to trim the boot back on the trailer side. and I can always go back and add in the solenoid. Would not entail much redo - just two more terminals and the up fitter wiring. and I could use an always hot up fitter switch too.

Enough for now - need to get started on building my support tray to keep my generators and fuel cans secure. Sure wish I had my generators back (maybe Monday), but I have my old wood one to start from.

Thanks for the help folks
Keith

[ncitro]

Yoda No problem with the boot, my father in law has a TT so no in bed connection and uses his that way.

The solenoid is because the upfitter is not fused or rated to 100A. Depending on the switch you use they vary from 10-40, so you use the solenoid like a switch. The upfitter turns the solenoid on (it's coil draws very little current so use your smallest upfitter), and then the solenoid turns on the power to your 100A cable.

Unfortunately you need that right away.

[Yoda]

Yoda No problem with the boot, my father in law has a TT so no in bed connection and uses his that way.

The solenoid is because the upfitter is not fused or rated to 100A. Depending on the switch you use they vary from 10-40, so you use the solenoid like a switch. The upfitter turns the solenoid on (it's coil draws very little current so use your smallest upfitter), and then the solenoid turns on the power to your 100A cable.

Unfortunately you need that right away.

Thanks Neil
I have everything including the solenoid, it is just a lot more effort and time. But then again doing it right the first time will save time later. Ill tackle the terminal today..

Keith

[ncitro]

Yoda i reread your question and think I misunderstood. I thought you were asking if you could use a upfitter without the solenoid, but now I think you were asking if you could run without any switch right to the battery. I suppose that would work but that would make the Andersen connector hot all the time. Not sure I'd be comfortable with that if it was me.

[howson]

Thanks Neil
I have everything including the solenoid, it is just a lot more effort and time. But then again doing it right the first time will save time later. Ill tackle the terminal today..

Keith

I wired directly to the Upfitter switches according to the draw required by the device, Keith. The Airlift compressor to a 20A circuit, the Renogy's relay ("solenoid") trigger to a 20A (further protected the very small gauge wire I used with a 1A fuse), then used the two separate 40A circuits for the VIAIR compressor and the winch. Yes, each one requires it's own wiring, but once the work's done there's no reconfiguring to power something. Pic below from my master diagram (updated to reflect the VIAIR and winch):

[Yoda]

Thanks everyone. I am going to think on this for a bit. Howard howson and Neil ncitro would Wago connectors work for the up fitter wiring. or do I need to do bulb crimps. Just wondering as the Wago's could get wet in the engine bay and I can seal the bulb crimps. I just concerned on how short the wiring is.

I need to find some heat shrink tubing for my #2 wire terminals. I think HD has some. I also need a couple of totes for tool storage. I am moving all my tools and Jacks to the truck.

As for the DC_DC project I got the temp probe installed and everything buttoned up. Now to clean up the mess before I start on another one

Keith

[howson]

Thanks everyone. I am going to think on this for a bit. Howard howson and Neil ncitro would Wago connectors work for the up fitter wiring. or do I need to do bulb crimps. Just wondering as the Wago's could get wet in the engine bay and I can seal the bulb crimps. I just concerned on how short the wiring is.

I need to find some heat shrink tubing for my #2 wire terminals. I think HD has some. I also need a couple of totes for tool storage. I am moving all my tools and Jacks to the truck.

As for the DC_DC project I got the temp probe installed and everything buttoned up. Now to clean up the mess before I start on another one

Keith

I used butt connectors for the wiring that has heat-activated shrink sealant, further protected by heat shrink over the connection (the heat shrink came lined with glue so if seals again) and all the subsequent wiring is inside of wire loom to protect against chafing. So...no, I would not recommend Wago connectors for the Upfitter wiring. (Rough environment under the hood of our vehicles.)

[ncitro]

I agree with Howard, you need a water tight splice

[Cate&Rob]

Now . . . if you want to spend more money . . . . . . I use Delphi Weatherpack connectors where ever possible. These are easy to assemble and provide a completely weatherproof connection that can be “unplugged” if you need to. I used these extensively at work, but now buy the parts from https://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wir...pack-terminals I can suggest what would make a good “kit” to have . . . if anyone is interested.

Rob

[Yoda]

Now . . . if you want to spend more money . . . . . . I use Delphi Weatherpack connectors where ever possible. These are easy to assemble and provide a completely weatherproof connection that can be “unplugged” if you need to. I used these extensively at work, but now buy the parts from https://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wir...pack-terminals I can suggest what would make a good “kit” to have . . . if anyone is interested.

Rob

Good grief - I actually have some of those somewhere - but where is the question. I used them years ago on my tractor third function project and forgot I have them. I also have some heat shrink butt connectors, but they may be too big. Napa has them in town and will be open tomorrow. Too hot now to work anyway. I need to sort through everything I have and get it organized in a Husky compartment box I got. Same for my screw and bolt selection.

Thanks for the help
Keith