DC - DC Charger Project

[ncitro]

Eric on my 04 the fuse block on the drivers side had several open spots. I found in testing that some were always hot and some ignition hot. I was installing and air compressor and needed ignition hot. I used a fuse tap on the hot side and went through a switch and then to the relay. I had the switch in the glove box along with the pressure gauge. It should be very easy to mount a switch on the drivers side lower dash - there may even be a blank spot in the dash, before the relay that powers the DC-DC

Something to think about.
Keith

You could add a switch, and admittedly it is nice to have mine on the upfitter switch, but honestly I do not think its needed. I have the relay connection on the Renogy connected to the running lights, so my father in law with the F150 basically need to have it plugged in, truck running, and lights on for it to be on. If it is a short trip and the batteries are full, or we are in full sun he just does not plug it in those days.

[Popga]

This forum is way better than a crossword puzzle for stimulating my brain and keeping it functioning....

[howson]

You could add a switch, and admittedly it is nice to have mine on the upfitter switch, but honestly I do not think its needed. I have the relay connection on the Renogy connected to the running lights, so my father in law with the F150 basically need to have it plugged in, truck running, and lights on for it to be on. If it is a short trip and the batteries are full, or we are in full sun he just does not plug it in those days.

The extra switch (to control the relay) provides an additional layer of safety to keep the connector hanging from the back of the truck from being "live" when it shouldn't be powered. At least that's why it was added to the wiring on my setup--I have to take two deliberate actions to get the truck's electrical 12V power active on the DC-DC wiring: turn on the upfitter and (manually, not in auto) turn on the headlights. For the readers of this thread, that may seem like a lot but keep in mind that the wiring (when enabled) is connected to two AGM deep-cycle batteries wired in parallel (the Ford OEM setup).

[Popga]

Is there an advantage to having the relay powered by a switch that does not require the ignition to be on, for example for those who use the rear TV connector as a 12V power supply for pumps and such? Or is that risky?

Erik

[Jlawles2]

Popga That depends on the user. If there is no chance of leaving the system powered where it can kill the TV batteries and leave you stranded, then there is not an advantage. The primary reason for the relay and power with key it to hopefully keep the system from drawing power when it's not running.

If it were me, I'd setup the really such that it is on an oil pressure switch or something that only comes on when the engine is actually running. I have really bad luck with Murphy.

[Guest]

This forum is way better than a crossword puzzle for stimulating my brain and keeping it functioning....

LOL. For many it is harmful to the wallet with all the tool and modifications being done here. All good stuff.

Jim

[Popga]

Yoda
Keith,
I am gathering all the components for my DC-DC build.
What drove you to use the braided sleeve to protect your wiring vs the split loom? I do love the braided look.
Also if you were to do it again, would you still bundle both wires on the TV into one braided sleeve, or go separate?

Erik

[Yoda]

Yoda
Keith,
I am gathering all the components for my DC-DC build.
What drove you to use the braided sleeve to protect your wiring vs the split loom? I do love the braided look.
Also if you were to do it again, would you still bundle both wires on the TV into one braided sleeve, or go separate?

Erik

Eric - It was the first time using the braided loom and I love the stuff - much more flexible than the rigid split stuff. It's actually easy to install too. I posted the source back in post [HASHTAG="t295"]110[/HASHTAG] - wire source in (best wire available) , but here is the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...2?ie=UTF8&th=1

The 1.5" (red covering both wires) was the easiest to work with. As for looming the wires together - definitely would do again - made slick work of fishing it through the body to the back. I believe it added good protection to the wire - its tough stuff. It just keeps things neat. Just watch for sharp points you running past - I used some foam tape and padding on any sharp points and secured it tightly to avoid any slop that might create wear points.

Hope this helps
Keith

BTW the Cole-Hersey solenoid is working well.

[Popga]

Yoda

Thanks!
On the solenoid ground, your post (#227) you checked the ground to make sure it was good. Just verifying my understanding, small lug on solenoid wired to a good ground on the frame...Ya?
the mounting bolts of the solenoid are not intended to ground it, correct?

Erik

[Yoda]

Yoda

Thanks!
On the solenoid ground, your post (#227) you checked the ground to make sure it was good. Just verifying my understanding, small lug on solenoid wired to a good ground on the frame...Ya?
the mounting bolts of the solenoid are not intended to ground it, correct?

Erik

I grounded the solenoid (negative coil side) to one of the mounting bolts that secures the solenoid to the frame mount. You can see the ring terminal on the left attachment bolt if you look closely. Not sure on you 05 how Ford has that done, but in general the body/frame are bonded in several locations. I would look for one of the grounding screws or ohm out the location your thinking of.

On the solenoid I used the case is not grounded - separate positive/negative coil terminals. However there are solenoids out there that are case grounded and will only have the positive coil terminal present.