DC - DC Charger Project

[Yoda]

Hi saw your note about orientation . . . and looked it up to confirm . . . not that I don't trust you LOL! I have never seen that restriction before and I have seen lots of these solenoids in various orientations and applications. I would not worry about it. If your solenoid stops working (highly unlikely) you will have something to check .

I would not cover the relay with rubber sealant spray . . . there may be some heat dissipation from the coil inside that is contingent on the metal can.

Rob

Hogdrv

Thanks Rob and Jim. I am going to leave everything as is and proceed with the 2awg wiring. Rob - is good you don't trust me .. Thanks for confirming what I found. Jim - if I may ask what size fuse are you running. If I hear back from the land down under I put it here.

Testing question - I was going to hook up to the truck (7pin and DC-DC and have my cell phone monitoring the BM712. First turn lights on then engage the up fitter switch. What should I see change on the BMV display on the phone? I have the DC-DC set to 30A right now?

Keith

[Hogdrv]

Yoda

Keith, I’m running a 20amp dc-dc charger and all my fuses are just 30 amps. I did what you are talking about, running down the road with the dc-dc charger on and off looking at my phone here are the numbers. I also had my solar going,didn’t think to turn it off (300 watts factory install) Dc charger off around 18-20 amps, dc charger on 34-38 amps batteries were about 80% two battle born.

Jim

[Yoda]

Yoda

Keith, I’m running a 20amp dc-dc charger and all my fuses are just 30 amps. I did what you are talking about, running down the road with the dc-dc charger on and off looking at my phone here are the numbers. I also had my solar going,didn’t think to turn it off (300 watts factory install) Dc charger off around 18-20 amps, dc charger on 34-38 amps batteries were about 80% two battle born.

Jim

Jim I was talking about the up fitter wire fuse to activate the solenoid. Sorry if I was confusing
Thanks Keith

[Hogdrv]

My bad, I did not put one on that wire, I did use the no.1 upfitter switch like you though.
Jim

[ncitro]

Yoda I agree with Rob, I’ve seen and used solenoids like that in many projects over the year’s and in just about every orientation. I’d leave it but keep it in mind if you ever have to troubleshoot.

I fused my coil at 7A, mainly because it was the smallest fuse I had laying around. The coil should draw less than an amp.

As far as what to see, hook everything up, look at the current. Then when you turn on the upfitter you should see the current go up by 30A.

[Yoda]

Well I got the stud instaled and went to put the fuse block on. DOH! it had a 3/8" / M10 hole for the connection to the battery. So I figured out I could shim the hole down (scrap SS tubing ) but then realized for it to fit at the post it wold need to be elevated slightly off the terminal base. This means the M6 stud would be carrying the full amperage. And according to this link https://www.erichgeiss.de/en/start/t...arrying-bolts/ and using the " Current-carrying capacity for lead-through terminals" the M6 is rated for only 63 amps well below what this connection could see. So I need to think on this. I have some M10 bolts and nuts in SS from another project


Anyway this is how I installed the stud.



IN order to drill the terminal I left it connected to the post. Way too complicated to remove. I put a shim under it to protect the battery



I then drilled the hole (small pilot hole first) and started the tap. I ran the vacuum through both processes to catch any shavings. To complete the full tap I removed the terminal from the battery.

I then installed the M6 bolt through the bottomed and tightened.

[Yoda]

Bolt installed, but lacking capture nut. It was at this point I went and got my Blue Sea MRBF Terminal Fuse Block wit the 100A fuse.

UGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As you can see there is a slight problem. The small bolt is the M6. Beside is is the needed M10. There is space on the terminal for this, but I will need to shave the hex head thinner for clearance from the battery top. Whats driving the issue is the angle of the battery terminal when attached an getting the fuse holder to fit in the space, especially clearing the radiator bottle.

Thoughts on this dilemma?

Keith

[TedS]

Use the M6. If you have a couple M6 flat washers, use those on either side.

[Yoda]

Use the M6. If you have a couple M6 flat washers, use those on either side.

Thanks Ted. The issue is I need to space the fuse block up (double nutted on the M6 stud) leaving an exposed shank portion. That M6 stud can't take the 80 plus amps if running full charge. Normally the base would have contact with the battery lug giving a greater surface area.

Look at the first picture in post 247.Imagine the fuse block mounted high on that stud to clear the battery terminal post section I am holding with my fingers. There will be an exposed section of the stud the entire DC-DC current will be running through. Maybe I have enough M6 flat washers to stack up, but not sure how strong that will be and I would still need to shim the fuse holder hole.. I have several spare M 10 hex bolts, I am going to try shaving the head on one first for clearance. If that works I may just tap a bigger hole fro the M10 and be done with it

Ill sleep on it - Thanks again for your thoughts
Keith

[AlexPeterson]

SNIP

Keith

On edit.I just discovered I have the solenoid mounted wrong as the big top should be pointed Down. https://colehersee.com.au/product/sp...duty-solenoid/ It was a real pain to get in the first time. Anyone know why?

I don't think it will matter. I first heard of solenoid orientation when wiring an aircraft I built some years ago. Since aircraft can pull several g's when performing aerobatics, one does not want the solenoid to disengage at high g loads, hence the orientation. If you hit a bump hard enough to (momentarily) disengage the solenoid which is mounted upside down, you might have bigger problems to worry about!

[Yoda]

Problem solved


First step was to see if I could trim the hex head 10MM SS bolt. Started with a hacksaw to get the alignment, and finished with my saw-zall. A bit of touch up with the grinder and I was good to go.


Finished bolt


I then drilled and taped for the 10MM bolt, installed and check the fit on the battery post. The back pulled tight when the locking nut was added.

[Yoda]

This is the finished battery terminal with locking nut and re attached to the battery post. The shaved bolt head works to give good clamping area on the post. The top of the locking nut is very close to being flush with the top of the terminal.


It took 2 ss washers to shim the base of the fuse holder up to clear. I then trimmed the cover to fit. In this position it is still possible to remove the battery terminal if needed and not need to undo this connection.

I then installed the 100A fuse so I could see the indicator section. The connection here will have its own boot, so everything will be covered. On edit - the black pipe above the fuse is plastic and is actually well clear of the connection.

Well now on to making up the cables and threading them back to the bed.

I feel good about this solution 0 no compromise. I just need to make sure the negative terminal connection has full lug contact and not just the 6MM stud taking the amperage. Should not be a problem.

Thoughts?

Keith

[Hogdrv]

Keith,
nice job

[Yoda]

Long day but I finally have the cables run to the bed from the battery. All cables have a flexible loom over them.



I started by making up the cable ends. Thanks to howson I had previously bought this crimper kit. Does a great job making crimps. Goes down to 10 awg Price has go up, but you can get it here https://temcoindustrial.com/th0005-v...h-32-die-sets/


First up was the battery side of the solenoid, then the bed feed side. It was tight fit getting the 1/2" combo wrench in there, but everything cam together and is tight and covered.


Then I was able to get full lug contact on the negative battery posts. Again if the battery needs to be removed full access is there.

[Yoda]

So follow along how I ran the cabled to the back.

Starting with the overall cables run at the battery. Thepositive to solenoid is not hooked up yet. In the second picture at the far left the cables dive down the inner fender tho the lower frame rail.


Coming out the lower fender I secured it to the body mount and existing Ford cable holder. I thne folowed the Ford cable down the frame zip tying to the top of the cable bundle as I went.

Just follow the Ford loom.