DC - DC Charger Project

[Yoda]

Well I have procrastinated too long and made a decision (somewhat) on my next part of the install.

First I amt back and fixed the D+ connection to the clearance light as the WAGO was not water proof.


Old - This was the WAGO under the tape New, I used a heat shrink splice and covered with heat shrink tubing.




Now on the decision on how I was going to wire the 12V bed plug.........................................to use a solenoid or not/////////////

Well

[Yoda]

Does this answer the question I used the existing unused barcket Ford had there. Almost and exact fit. I also tested the ground wire to make sure it was making contact with the truck frame.

Now to where do I bring the plug out in the bed.


Do I cut the hole and place my bulkhead fitting, or drill out a large hole just to bringthe cable through at this spot - OR?



Utilize one of Fords existing holes. The cable will fit through the top or bottom hole. Right now I am thinking the bottom hole and I can tie the plug off around the corner if needed. OR come out the top hole and just let it hang down above the bed. I can use the center hole to tie it off if needed.

Thoughts?

I took a break due to pending T-Storm but will probably run the up fitter wire next. I plan to use switch 1.

Keith

[Hogdrv]

Cutting holes in new trucks nooooooo, not for me!

[ncitro]

It’s hard to cut the hole, but I wanted mine out of the way when I load and unload the truck so those holes worried me.

[Yoda]

Cutting holes in new trucks nooooooo, not for me!

Thanks Jim
Any issues with it catching while loading and unloading, like Neil mentions?

Keith

[Hogdrv]

No I haven’t had any problems loading yet, I have had full sheets of plywood and a large scaffolding in the bed but no problem. I did Velcro it to the bed, but it doesn’t stick very well with the spray in liner. I just wanted to make sure this worked the way it was supposed to and what I really wanted before I went to the point of no return (holes). So far no problem.
Jim

[Yoda]

No I haven’t had any problems loading yet, I have had full sheets of plywood and a large scaffolding in the bed but no problem. I did Velcro it to the bed, but it doesn’t stick very well with the spray in liner. I just wanted to make sure this worked the way it was supposed to and what I really wanted before I went to the point of no return (holes). So far no problem.
Jim

Thanks
I am going to borrow you location. Appreciate the help
Keith

[Hogdrv]

Let me know how it works out 👍

[Yoda]

Was a good day today. I got the up fitter switch wire to the solenoid

Step one - find and un-bundle the up fitter wires, WOW that was a lot of tape Ford used.

I pulled the fuse/relay box up and got access tot he wires I separated out the #1 switch wire (brown/green)


Its nice to find a label right there with the wiring codes. The black tape is just thee to hold the bundle up while I work.


I used a heat shrink butt splice and then covered that with marine heat shrink tube. Yellow wire is 14awg


I then used high temp loom to run it across to the solenoid on the drivers side.


I then drilled a few holes in the plastic lip and use zip ties to get to the middle, then switched sides.

[Yoda]

I continued with a few more holes and Zip ties to finish crossing along the back of the engine bay.


Up fitter switch 1 is a 40A circuit and I used 14 AWG wire so I chose to add an inline fuse (10a) before connecting to the solenoid. Shown is the complete heat shrink but connector.


Final connection made to solenoid and the fuse is easy to get to.


To get to the solenoid I just looped the wire and zip tied it to the radiator expansion jug tubing that was handy.

Tomorrow the big cable goes in.

Keith

On edit.I just discovered I have the solenoid mounted wrong as the big top should be pointed Down. https://colehersee.com.au/product/sp...duty-solenoid/ It was a real pain to get in the first time. Anyone know why?

[Hogdrv]

Keep water out?? Mine is also wrong didn’t know till NOW oh well. Seems under hood the water will becoming from the bottom. Not sure if I’ll change it or not, waiting for someone smarter than me to give me direction.
Jim

[TedS]

Gravity. To open the contacts. Not sprung to open?

On edit: this reason doesn't make sense.

[Yoda]

ncitro howson Cate&Rob
I don't know if you saw my edit in post #235 on the Solenoid orientation or not. Do your great kinds have any thoughts?. Is there anyone else I should tag?

Cole Hersee does not have a US contact, except I found out Little Fuse is the distributor. I did find an email for Hersee in Australia (home base) and sent off an inquiry, but with the time difference I don't expect a reply for a while.. I then tried calling Little fuse - talk about a mess. I kept being told I had the wrong department and was finally told to call Mexico for help. The solenoids are made in Mexico. Of course there I was directed immediately to voice mail. We will see if I get any response back.

After looking at the drawing for the solenoid it makes no sense that the stamped end cap should be down. This leaves the cap crimp ring exposed to collecting water. There is an internal spring that brakes the contact when power is removed. Is this spring undersized and could it possible make contact with vehicle motion if installed with the cap up? I am pretty sure the contact are at the large cap end so with the contact piston being pointed down gravity would have a larger effect on the plunger. Does the coil need that extra gravity to fully work? Over the years I have installed a lot of solenoids and never see a not on orientation. Howard probably got it right using s solid state one.

I now wish I had never good looking for the coil amp rating to choose the proper fuse size. Still have not found that information either on the Hersee site, Little Fuse site or elsewhere. I currently have a 10A fuse in pace, but have others available.

Hogdrv has his mounted cap up and I assume it is working that way- is that a correct assumption Jim?

If I do need to flip it I am thinking of getting some of that rubber sealant spray (flex seal) and seal it up. - they do come PVC coated (IP67 rating) as an option, but I could not find one.

Thanks for any help
Keith

[Cate&Rob]

I saw your note about orientation . . . and looked it up to confirm . . . not that I don't trust you LOL! I have never seen that restriction before and I have seen lots of these solenoids in various orientations and applications. I would not worry about it. If your solenoid stops working (highly unlikely) you will have something to check .

I would not cover the relay with rubber sealant spray . . . there may be some heat dissipation from the coil inside that is contingent on the metal can.

Rob

[Hogdrv]

Yoda
Keith, mine has has been working fine no problems.
Jim