Schiefswret, yes. The suction hose is connected to the pump filter.
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Schiefswret, disregard my suggestion to pinch the suction tubing. Doing that will result in pressurization of the pump filter when any leaking water gets through the pump. I doubt that the filter housing will tolerate the system pressure. It would be better on a temporary basis to pinch the soft hose on the outlet side of the pump.Ted
2021 Reflection 310RLS
2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW
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Thanks. Short of me having a better understanding of a temporary solution, I’m guessing that if I turn off the campsite water source and turn the pump back on, at least I can continue to stay here till 10/30 by simply utilizing the water from the tank and when near empty simply turn the campsite water source back on until the tank refills. I’ll order the new ‘pro’ pump model from Amazon and install it when we get back. TYDave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View PostThanks. Short of me having a better understanding of a temporary solution, I’m guessing that if I turn off the campsite water source and turn the pump back on, at least I can continue to stay here till 10/30 by simply utilizing the water from the tank and when near empty simply turn the campsite water source back on until the tank refills. I’ll order the new ‘pro’ pump model from Amazon and install it when we get back. TY
Thoughts?
Keith
https://www.homedepot.com/s/1%2F2%22...20valve?NCNI-52018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Keith I suspect that you are right but even if I was near a Home Depot, had the correct tools and knowledge to do what your suggesting, I’m hesitant to move forward in that respect until I can understand;
Note: We’ve been using this rig on average of 5-6 months a year for three years and only a week ago, due to unexpected cold weather in GA, used the fresh tank for the first time.
If the assumption is correct that the system was built correctly and didn’t leave out a check valve which is critical to the proper operation of the system in question, which is difficult to believe, why would the answer be to add an item to the system that wasn’t there to start with?
I respect your knowledge and experience as I’m sure it’s far more developed than mine but I’m just thinking; aren’t the odds far greater that the problem is a faulty item in the original build (pump) and not a missing part that should have been included in the original build but was overlooked?
Could I be wrong? ABSOLUTELY, but if my choices are to add an item not included in the original build and then to discover that it was an item that a significant number of RV folks say has a high failure rate, I’m thinking that I should replace the pump first and then see if that does the trick. Just my thoughts/logic.
In any case I appreciate your (and everyone else’s) time and effort with helping me find a resolution. Thanks again!! Any and all additional suggestions are welcomed and greatly appreciated.
Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View PostThanks. Short of me having a better understanding of a temporary solution, I’m guessing that if I turn off the campsite water source and turn the pump back on, at least I can continue to stay here till 10/30 by simply utilizing the water from the tank and when near empty simply turn the campsite water source back on until the tank refills. I’ll order the new ‘pro’ pump model from Amazon and install it when we get back. TYTed
2021 Reflection 310RLS
2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View PostThanks Rob, but considering I’m not in line to win an Olympic Gold Medal for mechanical skills, I suspect you are correct 😀. Are there any temporary measures that you can think of?
My only thought is to go back to using the pump since the tank seems to be filling my itself, so to speak, until I get home and that will prevent the constant overflow of campground water from the blue tube (if that makes sense)
If the pump check valve is indeed leaking, and you go to pump/tank water supply, this check valve leak will allow water back through the pump and into the tank. This will cause system pressure to drop and the pump will cycle. Actually . . . now that I think of it . . . this would be a good way to confirm that a leaking pump check valve is the problem.
Rob
Cate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View PostKeith I suspect that you are right but even if I was near a Home Depot, had the correct tools and knowledge to do what your suggesting, I’m hesitant to move forward in that respect until I can understand;
Note: We’ve been using this rig on average of 5-6 months a year for three years and only a week ago, due to unexpected cold weather in GA, used the fresh tank for the first time.
If the assumption is correct that the system was built correctly and didn’t leave out a check valve which is critical to the proper operation of the system in question, which is difficult to believe, why would the answer be to add an item to the system that wasn’t there to start with?
As Ted mentioned using the fresh water tank may have pulled something into the pump - it is filter on the intake side?, or as you have been on City water the check valve was always seated and using the pump shifted the seal somehow.
Just trying to help
Keith2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Originally posted by TedS View Post
This solution will work and may clear debris from the pump check valves. The pump output may be low until all the check valves are clear. When you change back to the campsite water source, check whether or not the fresh water tank fills. If the tank no longer fills, you may put off getting a new pump.Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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I guess you could go to the local HW store and pick up a 1/2" x 1/2" valve and put it in place of the pump. This might be the simplest and most effective block, If needed you can even use a section of nipples to make the valve a similar length to the pump and strainer so you can remove the strainer to avoid pressurizing it.
Once you get the bypass block installed, then you have the opportunity to tear into the had of the pump to determine what may be wrong. Pump rebuild parts are cheap (should you choose this option) and are basically just replacement seals.Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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Tks Joseph. New pump arriving Thursday. I think I’ll wait till I get back to St Pete to tackle the install, that way if anything goes south I’ll have far more resources available. TY for your input.Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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