Yoda's Victron MultiPlus and Solar Install - just hope I don't mess up.

[gbkims]

So does the Multiplus II have built in bluetooth or still need a GX device or BT adapter to connect to Victron Connect?

[bertschb]

So does the Multiplus II have built in bluetooth or still need a GX device or BT adapter to connect to Victron Connect?

No built in Bluetooth in my Multiplus II 120x2. Can't speak for the 24v Multiplus II. I'm using a Cerbo to connect to Victron Connect.

[ncitro]

No built in Bluetooth in my Multiplus II 120x2. Can't speak for the 24v Multiplus II. I'm using a Cerbo to connect to Victron Connect.

Yes firmware updates and programming were accessible from VictronConnect for me. Still requires a hardwire connection via mk3 to USB though.

[bertschb]

Yes firmware updates and programming were accessible from VictronConnect for me.

So you can set charge parameters and change the battery type for the inverter using Victron Connect????? If so, is that something new? It's been a month since I set mine up but I seem to recall every video I watched and everything I read said you needed VE Config to do that. It's either something new or my memory is much, much MUCH worse than I thought. No way I would have messed around setting up BootCamp on my MacBook and installing VE Config if I could have done the programming with Victron Connect.

[ncitro]

So you can set charge parameters and change the battery type for the inverter using Victron Connect????? If so, is that something new? It's been a month since I set mine up but I seem to recall every video I watched and everything I read said you needed VE Config to do that. It's either something new or my memory is much, much MUCH worse than I thought. No way I would have messed around setting up BootCamp on my MacBook and installing VE Config if I could have done the programming with Victron Connect.

I installed mine last summer and it was a thing then. I’ve never even used VE Config. I saw a couple references to it and Victron Connect looked much more intuitive. I can’t remember if I just tried it because I had it installed or if it’s what my manual said to do but it works great. I do remember there was something you could not do in VC, I think it had to do with chaining units together for to make split phase or three phase, I just remember it did not apply to me.

[Yoda]

I didn't know you could program the inverter using Victron Connect. I thought VE Config was required. Firmware updates? Yes. Programming? I didn't think that was possible.

Brian He used the cog wheel to open up the settings tab on the right. I would have never known to do that. There was also a tab somewhere to check and update, but he had control at that point. VE config did not give me that option on the firmware.

[bertschb]

Brian He used the cog wheel to open up the settings tab on the right. I would have never known to do that. There was also a tab somewhere to check and update, but he had control at that point. VE config did not give me that option on the firmware.

Yes, I updated my firmware with Victron Connect - just not the charge/battery settings for the inverter. I'll have to go back to the drawing board and see how I got so mislead on needing VE Config for programming changes. Maybe it's time for memory care...

[Yoda]

Yes, I updated my firmware with Victron Connect - just not the charge/battery settings for the inverter. I'll have to go back to the drawing board and see how I got so mislead on needing VE Config for programming changes. Maybe it's time for memory care...

Drop by a Holiday Inn Express

I was convinced I needed VE config too from all the videos. First thing I had to do was download and install Victron Connect. Its funny in trying to connect I installed and deleted that program because it did not work. Once I got the driver issue solved I was using VE config, so left it there. However VE Config seems to have other programs associated with it, possibly for other equipment. It is amazing what we all learn from sharing.

Thanks
Keith

[bertschb]

It is amazing what we all learn from sharing.

I agree Keith!

I connected my laptop to my Multiplus II this afternoon using Victron Connect and sure enough - you can program the inverter! I know everybody else here already knew that but I had to see for myself.

I guess it's not so bad having to install Windows on my MacBook to run VE Config. I'll need it to run FORScan to update my 2022 F-450 when it arrives later this year :-)

[Yoda]

I agree Keith!

I connected my laptop to my Multiplus II this afternoon using Victron Connect and sure enough - you can program the inverter! I know everybody else here already knew that but I had to see for myself.

I guess it's not so bad having to install Windows on my MacBook to run VE Config. I'll need it to run FORScan to update my 2022 F-450 when it arrives later this year :-)

That's good news. It's always good news to know there is more than one way to do it depending on what you have.


Today was a good day as for planning. By moving a couple of components off the mounting plate (solar panel disconnect breakers to front bay ceiling and battery to trailer disconnect switch to right side bulkhead) I now have things figured out. Tomorrow to drill and tap all the mounting holes. I braved HD today and got battery box supports (1.5" L channel) and tie downs, along with a small piece of lexan to insulate the blue sea 3000 series switches better. Also got my Bilstein shocks installed - another story

Pictures of layout tomorrow for final check.

Thanks
Keith

[Yoda]

It was a very good day today. Got everything mounted on the backing plate and figured wiring runs.
So wiring - I did not like what I drew on this but here goes verbally. Cerbo GX is upside down so all connections except power are facing down. Next to it is the MPPT 100/20 is for my existing 160W panel. All PV wire will come through the forth hole go to the circuit break box to be mounted on ceiling and the wires feed the MPPT. Wire is 10awg so I can make the tight bends. The MPPT 100/30 is for the new (2) 190W panels in series. The 8 awg PV wiring will follow the same route as the other. Positive wire will go through the circuit breakers on the lower Right and connect to the lynx power in bar on the top right so they feed the battery's directly. Negative wire will run to a buss bar downstream of the shunt (not shown).

Trailer feed ties to the same point the MPPT's tie to and run directly to the right between the 100/20 MPPT and the circuit breakers to a switch on the right wall of the bay (not shown) and to the existing trailer power in bar.

Battery positive (2 - 2/0 hot leads) will go through the switches and to the lynx power in bar positive. I have 4 6V batterys I am setting up in series as 2 banks. Negative battery leads will feed around and between the switches to the negative bar in the lynx system. A 4/0 negative lead will feed between the switches and tie to the shunt to be mounted below the switches.

Power to the inverter exits the left side of the Lynx (red square) to the switch (isolated on panel with 1/8" lexan) (yes it got out of square on me). to the fuse and then to the left to feed the MultiPlus. The negative lead from the MultiPlus will tie to the buss bar that will be mounted to the left of the shunt (not shown). All negative leads and grounding wires go to the same negative buss bar. There will be a single 4/0 wire from the buss bar to ground

Touch 50 and other cabling will come through the 3 hole. The first two holes are for 120V line in and out of the Multiplus. I will be mounting cable ties as needed.

Tomorrow I will un-mount everything (bag screws separately), sand and paint the mounting panel and hopefully get it installed in the front bay, and components re-mounted, Then the wiring shall begin. I though of doing the wiring with the panel out, but it is just as easy with it mounted.

Have I missed anything?

Thanks Keith

One big question. The blue sea switches are marked with input and output. Does it really matter which is used for which??? I am using them as simple on off switches. On the big switch to the left of the Lynx power in it has two output lugs and one input set up in a T formation on the back. its easier to connect to an output lug and then use the input lug to make the 90 degree turn to the fuse. I know might be a dumb question, but I thought I had better ask.

Thanks again
Back to my corner

[howson]

The blue sea switches are marked with input and output. Does it really matter which is used for which???

Nothing I could find in the instructions... https://www.bluesea.com/products/300...Battery_Switch

[Yoda]

Nothing I could find in the instructions... https://www.bluesea.com/products/300...Battery_Switch

Thanks Howard. In looking at other installs (pictures) there is a miss mash of how folks wired them up. Any other thoughts on the layout?

Keith

[howson]

Yoda -- I wish I had that larger capacity switch in my setup. A 600A rating is a nice cushion for an overload condition.

Well worth your time to draw out the wiring schematic. It's not too hard using a basic program like PowerPoint (or the free OpenOffice equivalent) using your picture as the background.

[bsktcas1]

[USER="246"]howson/USER] -- I wish I had that larger capacity switch in my setup. A 600A rating is a nice cushion for an overload condition.

I was thinking the same thing, as I've seen the 6006 used in many installs. I was trying to figure out the reason, and then I saw the specs of the 6006 show an intermittent (5 min ) rating of 500A and a 30 sec 900A rating. I assumed people were using this lower rated switch because their 400A fuse would have blown before the 5 mins had passed. But I'm no electrician!

Continuous Rating	300A
Intermittent Rating	500A (5 min)
Cranking Rating 30 sec	900A