Why have a 12v refrigerator

[acoleman43]

I'm sure the new 12v fridge will cool down much quicker than my previous absorption one. My concern is all of the horror stories I read on forums about these new units. Mine doesn't have a shut off switch. The only way to shut it completely off is to disconnect the negative battery lead. This is apparently due to the solar panel system being hard wired to the battery and fridge.
I just wish there was an easier way to shut off the fridge but still charge the batteries when the camper is in storage.

We had a small Norcold absorption fridge. 7CF. The thing had a VERY difficult time staying below 40 degrees. We kept gas on while towing, but the pilot flame would always blow out when traveling. Every time you were going to open the fridge, you would sketch out your plan of attack...cheese on the middle shelf in the back, mayo in the door.....ready.....GO! open the fridge, graab the items close the fridge. Whew...3 seconds. Hope it keeps temp down.

After 10+ trips I was done. Swapped it with a Norcold 12V fridge. larger capacity, won't "blow out" while traveling. Cools quicker, keeps temps lower (still trying to figure out how to even the cooling. stuff in back freezes).

Because I had to install new wiring for the fridge, I connected to the main distribution panel. If I want to shut it off, I can shut off distribution panel or pull fuse.

[TucsonJim]

(still trying to figure out how to even the cooling. stuff in back freezes).

For years, I've used a battery operated fan for circulating the air to achieve more consistent temperatures. Something similar to this:

https://amazon.com/Beech-Lane-Multip...-1-spons&psc=1

JIm

[acoleman43]

For years, I've used a battery operated fan for circulating the air to achieve more consistent temperatures. Something similar to this:

https://amazon.com/Beech-Lane-Multip...-1-spons&psc=1

JIm

We've used these as well without much success. I think the main issue is taht we pack the fridge so full of food the air can't circulate properly :(

That's what happens when you have 6 people for a week boondocking. But kids are growing up and leaving the house. Soon we will be down to just 4 of us

[Scott'n'Wendy]

But kids are growing up and leaving the house. Soon we will be down to just 4 of us

And it will be just as full.....lol

[Dale B]

I've been watching this 12vdc fridge as a potential solution to my Norcold 2118. Some of the problems being reported with these 12vdc fridges never mind the solar power(In my situation) has me on the side of caution.

My Norcold has made it to my POS list, the reason is I'm sure it is working as designed after correcting some of the common problems. It's 3000btu rating works out to a 30lb bottle of propane per week, that is insane in a modern world. I've read other stories about owners being handed an equally insane power bill if they are metered.

I made the choice selecting this fridge based on previous smaller fridge experience & low propane usage. Thinking in a modern world, not a 12 year old fridge the new dual fuel prop/elect would be equal or better in efficiency. What other appliance in todays world could go so far backwards? This Norcold 2118 is an over designed POS, no innovation or technology.

In the RV world I go down the road of backup for the backup, one of my concerns going to a straight 12vdc fridge.

[Yoda]

If your absorption fridge is not cooling correctly, check the interior probe location. For cooler it (the tip of the probe) needs to be at the top of the outside fin. I found mine had slipped down inside the holder when I checked this per instructions from Dometic. I will be doing some testing later this week.
Keith

[Cindy]

If your absorption fridge is not cooling correctly, check the interior probe location. For cooler it (the tip of the probe) needs to be at the top of the outside fin. I found mine had slipped down inside the holder when I checked this per instructions from Dometic. I will be doing some testing later this week.
Keith

I have a 2022 Solitude 3330RE with a Norcold 1210T that stopped cooling after owning the RV 4 months.... Had a RV mobile repair out, they researched, contacted Norcold (thank you warranty) & a replacement cooling unit was sent out. Cooling unit swapped out and so far so good using either gas or electric. Temps has remained consistent 20-27 degrees for the fridge & 0-6 degrees for the freezer.... fridge isn't full (it's just me).... the sensor is at the top of the second fin (from the right).... fingers remain crossed that it's been repaired for good....
Cindy

[COReflection]

My new 303RLS has the double door 12v fridge and we love it. I'd never go back to the absorbsition. We only boondock and never plug in.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

My new 303RLS has the double door 12v fridge and we love it. I'd never go back to the absorbsition. We only boondock and never plug in.

Did you purchase the 12v fridge to replace an absorption or was it factory?
If factory.......You have a little more solar than what it came with I'm thinking?

[dustinsn3485]

Hello. Went RV shopping yesterday with a friend, as I know a bit more than he did. He really wants a 17MKE, but was put off on the new ones coming only with a 12v reefer. He boondocks a lot, and likes the option to run off of gas for his first solid body camper. The salesman (of course) gave the whole pitch about the advantages, and that with the factory solar it was easy to run the fridge on battery for a week (!) We saw through that, but at least started to think about the possibility with bigger batteries and more solar... However, I wandered off to the service/parts area while he talked to the salesperson, and jokingly asked the service manager about how tough a job it would be to pull out my existing combo fridge, and put in a 12v. He said "I don't care if it was only just removing two screws...I'd never do it. I've never warranty replaced more fridges than I have with those over the last several months." Hmmm, looks like my friend will be shopping for slightly used models.... Anyone else have feedback about reliability of the 12v fridges??

We've got a 17MKE with 12V fridge. It's been flawless in the two years that we've owned and used it so far. I'm a fan of the 12V and traded a 15FLE with propane/electric for a 17MKE and one of the primary reasons was for the 12V fridge and the solar.
I've changed the battery to lithium in conjunction with the installed solar. The key to the salesmans statement is with adequate sunlight. We watch our power use quite close when not on shore power, the fridge alone with about 6 hours of sun only used about 25% of the battery capacity. I've let just the fridge run for a week on solar alone and the battery never dropped below about 60% even on a relatively cloudy day. We have no problem getting through a weekend with sunny conditions on solar alone.

I believe by adding a second battery and eventually a second panel, under good conditions with adequate sunlight the 17MKE could easily do an indefinite amount of time on solar alone.

[Kathy&Jim_Imagine]

Hmmmm, our 2022 Imagine has a GE 12v compressor refrigerator. Seems to work quite well. However, the light does NOT shut off when the door is left propped open (as when we store the trailer) so a power cutoff switch will be installed in my front compartment in the spring. In the meantime, pulling the inline fuse does the trick.

[AZMike]

Hmmmm, our 2022 Imagine has a GE 12v compressor refrigerator. Seems to work quite well. However, the light does NOT shut off when the door is left propped open (as when we store the trailer) so a power cutoff switch will be installed in my front compartment in the spring. In the meantime, pulling the inline fuse does the trick.

I replaced my Dometic DM2882 with the GE fridge like you have. There was nothing wrong with the Dometic, but I wanted to replace it due to the propane safety issue and also the additional 2 cubic feet of space. I'm very satisfied with my upgrade.

[Jlawles2]

Hmmmm, our 2022 Imagine has a GE 12v compressor refrigerator. Seems to work quite well. However, the light does NOT shut off when the door is left propped open (as when we store the trailer) so a power cutoff switch will be installed in my front compartment in the spring. In the meantime, pulling the inline fuse does the trick.

You may have to prop the door open and wait. There is a discussion on the forum about the light and it takes a stupid amount of time (5 min or so) before it goes out on its own.

[JBill9694]

Kathy&Jim_Imagine, if you're putting the trailer in storage, I strongly recommend disconnecting the battery ground instead of a cutoff to the refrigerator. There are other parasitic drains on the battery and disconnecting the battery is the surest way to protect the battery.

[Kathy&Jim_Imagine]

JBill9694, John, Thanks for your input. I agree that there is usually parasitic draw the way the factory wires the RV. And I guess some clairification is in order. I recently switched over to a new system which has 420ah of lithium and a bunch of Victron gear. But before I had switched over I simply pulled the in-line fuse for the refrigerator when in storage so we could keep the refrigerator doors cracked open. The remaining draw didn't seem to be an issue with the factory solar that the rig had.

Again, thanks for your thoughtful input. I appreciate it.
Jim