Pressing slide in keeps blowing fuse.

[sbfdchief91]

I have a 2019 17 MKE. I put the slide out. No problem. When I go to put the slide in, it instantly blows the 15 amp fuse for the control panel. I changed five fuses then I tried the override and that did not work. Still blew fuses. When you press slide out you can hear it power up. When you press slide in it blows the fuse. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[familytruckster4]

My first advice would be to check it for obstructions, If it wont crank in with the override it would indicate and obstruction or part failure of some sort.
Also note that if you crank a slide in manually you need to disconnect the battery cables so you dont backfeed the system (the motor will produce a current)

[familytruckster4]

Sorry, its a Shwintek slide, I didnt realize that, I thought it was a rack and pinion on that model

I cant be any help with the shwintek
Try youtube, I do know there are troubleshooting videos on there

[StephenO]

Not sure if your trailer is wired differently, but I have to assume no, but on our trailer there are two fuses involved for the slide system. One is the 15amp fuse you referred to for the control center and the other is a 30amp self resetting fuse for the slide motors. On the slide controller, there is a 12v input, which I believe will be connected to the 30amp fuse, and a switch input, which will come from the convenience center.

Since the 15amp fuses to the convenience center is popping when you press the retract button, I would think you have a short somewhere there. Perhaps try disconnecting the toggle switch from the slide controller, and press the retract button. Obviously the slide won't go anywhere since the switch is not connected, but if the fuse still blows, that would mean the wire between the switch and the controller is your issue. If the fuse doesn't blow when the switch is disconnected, then perhaps there is a fault within the controller itself....

Another way to possibly check this is with your multimeter checking for a resistance value between the DC negative system and the positive at the switch pins on the back, particularly the retract pin.

[ncitro]

sbfdchief91 On a Schwintek I lean to thinking it's the wiring harness for the motor. I know a few members on here have replaced theirs themselves. This is the thread that comes immediately to mind:

https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...t-momentum-376

[Jims94vmx]

I just had similar problem. By process of elimination found it to be a short on the wire controlling the "in" side. In other words it did not pop fuse when powering the slide out.

ended up the wire from the controller to the switch was literally zip tied and screwed to the floor against the sharp corner of the furnace. From the factory!

re taped the wire and moved the harness away from furnace and all is well.

I posted a thread with some pics a couple weeks ago....good luck.

[Jims94vmx]

[Lonestar]

Since the 15amp fuses to the convenience center is popping when you press the retract button, I would think you have a short somewhere there. Perhaps try disconnecting the toggle switch from the slide controller, and press the retract button. Obviously the slide won't go anywhere since the switch is not connected, but if the fuse still blows, that would mean the wire between the switch and the controller is your issue. If the fuse doesn't blow when the switch is disconnected, then perhaps there is a fault within the controller itself....

Another way to possibly check this is with your multimeter checking for a resistance value between the DC negative system and the positive at the switch pins on the back, particularly the retract pin.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you disconnect the switch wiring at the controller you will no longer have 12vdc through the switch circuit. If activated without current running through it no fuse will be tripped, regardless if there is a wiring issue.

You second suggestion using a multimeter to check resistance in the circuit will definitely show a short.

[StephenO]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you disconnect the switch wiring at the controller you will no longer have 12vdc through the switch circuit. If activated without current running through it no fuse will be tripped, regardless if there is a wiring issue.

You second suggestion using a multimeter to check resistance in the circuit will definitely show a short.

Yes and no

Where my head was at, I was thinking there could be a short somewhere in the wiring that connects the toggle switch in the convenience center to the slide controller. To test that, disconnect the wiring at the slide controller and leave it connected on the switch side, then toggle the switch to retract. If there is a short there, then current should travel from the fuse, to the toggle switch, through the wiring mentioned above, to the short back to the negative, causing the fuse to pop.

If there is no short in that wiring, then when you toggle the switch nothing should happen as the current has no path to flow. In that case though, then likely something in the slide controller is causing the fuse to pop.

But you are right, if the wiring is disconnected at the toggle switch, then nothing would happen either way.

[sbfdchief91]

Follow up. With alot of trouble shooting and making a bypass wire, the problem is the wire that runs from the control panel switch to the slide controller for the "in" side is shorted. Made a bypass from switch to controller and slide works. Now the only issue is how to replace that paired wire that runs up behind the panel across the ceiling and back down into the space under the bed behind the draws. I have a standard east west bed. Or find the short and repair. Maybe GD can chime in on this? Can I just pull a new wire thru?

[Jlawles2]

I'd try to identify the wire in various locations by removing things like the vents and possibly air conditioner internal shroud to see if you can locate the wire along it's path. After that you may be able to pull it in sections, but I would not hold my breath as one single stapled area of wire (probably where the short is) will prevent this from happening.

[howson]

Follow up. With alot of trouble shooting and making a bypass wire, the problem is the wire that runs from the control panel switch to the slide controller for the "in" side is shorted. Made a bypass from switch to controller and slide works. Now the only issue is how to replace that paired wire that runs up behind the panel across the ceiling and back down into the space under the bed behind the draws. I have a standard east west bed. Or find the short and repair. Maybe GD can chime in on this? Can I just pull a new wire thru?

I agree with Joseph. Likely a staple or something else that has finally worked it's way through the insulation and is now shorting out that wire. I doubt it will be as easy as pulling the old one out while pulling through the new one. Most likely it will be fishing a new wire.

Where is the controller in relation to the Convenience Center (CC)? I know the slide is on the opposite side of the camper from the CC but not sure where the controller is located.

[Jims94vmx]

Mine was the same. Follow wire and see if it rubbed against the furnace. Maybe the same kid did our rv's

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Also note that if you crank a slide in manually you need to disconnect the battery cables so you dont backfeed the system (the motor will produce a current)

Motor will not generate anything significant with you manually cranking the slide.

[TedS]

Motor will not generate anything significant with you manually cranking the slide.

The switch is open, so no current path.