Reflection 220RK 6K axle replacement - step by step

[Yoda]

OK, maybe they just appear really tall to me or my memory has faded a tad since I did that job 10 or so years ago.

Scott You may be correct - I retook my measurements but don't know if I should go higher or lower.


Distance behind the axles 25 1/2 Distance in front of axles 24 3/4, so average when level would be about 25 1/4

Stack height 26 3/4 so I will be jacking the frame about 2" to get the cribbing under. I am pretty sure this wont get the tires off the ground, but I can jack under the spring perch to remove Will be tight with the cribbing there. . However my new axles are about 3/4 to 1" taller overall height due to increase spring stake height, thicker tube and new spring arch.

Do I need to go up another 3/4" on the stack? I am thinking of trying them as the are as I can always jack up if needed? Or go lower to say 26"?

Well back to cutting, drilling, and deck screws. Two more to build

Thoughts?

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda . . . I would go a little higher. You will want to be able to assemble everything for a complete assembly check, including the wheels. Might as well have the frame sitting solidly high enough to do this.

Rob

[Yoda]

Yoda . . . I would go a little higher. You will want to be able to assemble everything for a complete assembly check, including the wheels. Might as well have the frame sitting solidly high enough to do this.

Rob

Thanks Rob

Got he 5th one done and half way through the last crib build. I have some 1 by 4 boards I can shim up with to get the final height. Are you saying have the tires off the ground when cribbed up? As for the complete assemble check I was going to double check the torque on all bolts once done and after it sits a day. Is there any else needed? When I finally mount the tires I was going to double check the bearing play and brake activation using the truck.

Happy Easter

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Rob has a point there, but when I did mine I lifted it the bare minimum and after the axles were in I had to jack up the axles a bit to get the tire on. The higher I lift cars, trucks, trailers, etc the more uneasy I feel. So I keep them as close to the ground as possible. Not saying it is the right way to do it, just the way I feel is best for me.

[Cate&Rob]

You will have support under the axles as you lift them into position. If/when you remove this support, be careful of the shackles “flipping” if the axles are hanging from the chassis above. This is normally not a problem when one side is worked on at a time and the tires on the other side remain on the ground . . . but, can be a concern if both sides are suspended.

Rob

[Yoda]

Finished up the 6 the one this morning.

Now to get them all in place ready to set. I have additional 1x4 material cut and ready if needed.

Ill get pictures as I get them placed to hopefully help others in the future. And yes I know it's time to paint the deck again I may just replace it as the foundation and structure is not the best.

Keith

[Country Campers]

Forget the trailer work! Why are you not sitting in that hot tub?

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Forget the trailer work! Why are you not sitting in that hot tub?

Brian

You, Michelle, Wendy and I could be sitting in that hot tub with a beverage while we offer Keith advice........

[Yoda]

You, Michelle, Wendy and I could be sitting in that hot tub with a beverage while we offer Keith advice........

LOL - come on over, but I have to much advise as is

[Scott'n'Wendy]

LOL - come on over, but I have to much advise as is

Which reminds me...a job such as this should require a new tool...............or two......

[Yoda]

Which reminds me...a job such as this should require a new tool...............or two......

Been there done that - jack stands. I have everything else (Impact gun and sockets) from a previous suggestion


Cribbing set to install. Just need to move the truck, get the bottle jack out and tractor hooked up and go for it. I will be using jack stands at the very rear as cribbing wont fit.
Tomorrow will be interesting


Keith

BTW look up what I found with the water tank while clearing room of the cribbing. Posted in plumbing.

[Yoda]

It was a goo day, but I am tired. Trailer is now on the cribbing and I figured out a way to get there without jacks.



I set the rear blocks first - no jacking required


How do I set theses with no jacking?

I just lowered the nose until the rear frame was high enough. I then raised the front until firm contact. I did not put a major load on the front jacks, just o the point they were working a bit. I then check the cribbing for any issues - none found. The it was time to bring in the BIG jack

I have an attachment for the front of my tractor that fits the king pin. I can lift about 1400 lbs safely - possibly a bit more. First I moved my new Truck The went to lift the front of the trailer Ugg. However I ran into a slight issue. It did not have enough lift capacity to fully lift the front end - almost but not quite, so I had DW use the landing gear jacks for the little bit needed for the extra lift. The front jacks were not under much load doing this. I made sure of that. We lifted enough to get the front cribbing in, but found I needed to go up some more for the middle blocks in front of the axles., Also had to adjust the Valturra end cap valve to get the drivers side cribbing in. Ill probably need to re-glue it as it rotated on the barrel and not the locking collar that I had used silicone when I installed it.

Trailer is now fully supported by the cribbing. I lowered the rear jacks for stabilization, Front landing gear is just set on the ground with a light load - cribbing is taking 99%. Before lowering the front and rear jacks I had the trailer 100% on the cribbing and tried to rock it with the tractor to see how stable it was. Zero movement for an aft and non movement sideways.. The tractor is really not needed as an anchor point, but I will keep it there just in case.

I had expected some creaking from the frame, but no noise during lifting. Trailer tires are just touching the ground. I have a small floor jack I can get under the spring perch for the last bit.

Anyone spot anything I should check out before proceeding?


Tomorrow I pull the axles. Just need to measure and build the cradle on the dolly platform so when I lower it I can pull it out easy.

Thanks
Keith

[Yoda]

On last picture of tractor being used at a dead man. Front tires chalked , brake set, and rear blade down. Not moving anywhere.

[Country Campers]

Looking good Keith. I think you are well on your way to getting this project done. Keep being careful.

Brian

[Yoda]

Got the wheels off yesterday - not much else as I tweaked my back a little. The cribbing height was exactly what I needed. Had to jack the axles on one side a smidge to get the wheels off and the other side they were just free spinning. My Milwaukee M18 impact gun (you folks twisted my arm remember) made very fast work of getting the lug nuts off. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/2863-22R I used the low power setting. Is there any reason I cant use to to get the suspension nuts off. I know to hold the bolt head to keep it from turning. For install I will use my normal ratchet wrenches.

I did have a slight panic attack looking at these compared to the new ones. The center hub on the new ones is bigger, so I though I was going to have a rim fitment problem. However the center cap fits the new axles - so I should be good. Lug spacing measures the same.


These look massive compared to the old.

Keith