Reflection 220RK 6K axle replacement - step by step

[Yoda]

Now a quick side bar on replacement lug nuts. OEM are the capped version and I think I want to go withe chrome plated. Most of what I have are in pretty good shape with maybe one loose cap and some rusting. As I have the aluminum wheels I have read not to use stainless steel. Not much out there as way of reviews or testing. Are there certain specifications I should be looking for? Are any brands made in the USA still? I will need a set of 24, 1/2x20 1 7/16 long overall - can be longer. Sendel wheel says I need "tapered acorn seat lugs" whatever that means.

Was looking at Amazon and a lot of Chins stuff has rusting issues and Chrome pealing popping up on some.

So any recommendations on what to get that would work would help?

Thanks for an help

Keith

On edit - should I get these https://www.amazon.com/MIKKUPPA-Chro...37&sr=8-2&th=1

Second edit Sendel just sent me this picture

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Keith,

No reason you can't use a power tool to remove the suspension nuts . . . they need to be replaced anyway.

The caution on stainless steel lug nuts is because many grades of stainless are softer than mild steel. I went with these chromed steel nuts and they seem to be working well. https://www.amazon.com/White-Knight-...s%2C236&sr=8-2 The caution about not using stainless with aluminum wheels does not make any sense. The OE lug nuts are stainless steel clad.

Rob

[Yoda]

Today is a good day so far. One axle is out and about to start on the other. I had to use the ball joint press to free the hanger bolts. Also good thing I had my impact wrench as man are the bolts tight. No issues of the knurls turning either, but I did use the backing wrench. Bushings are shot, although the ones in the EZ-Flex were still good - at least on one side. Ill post pictures later once I have the second axle out.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Hmmmm....Ball Joint Press....two pound hammer...potato, potahto.....

Glad you're making progress Keith!

[Yoda]

Hmmmm....Ball Joint Press....two pound hammer...potato, potahto.....

Glad you're making progress Keith!

I tried a hammer - not two lb though All it did was mark up the nut. The ball joint press took a bit of effort too. One side was tougher than the other, and I had made sure the pressure was off the spring too.

Well tine to get the second one out.

[Yoda]

Pictures


Step one was to place my modified furniture (HF) dolly at the axle center. Then with my small floor jack under the spring hanger remove the spring shackle end first. I used the floor jack to adjust the axle to take tension off of the hanger.


Then remove the hanger wet bolt and lower axle on the dolly. I then repeated the process on the other side.


To remove the wet bolt from the hanger ends I used my ball joint press. I realty like this tool as it made things very easy, and should make the install easy.

[Yoda]

Once both ends were free and I cut the brake wires I just rolled it out. I just repeated for the second axle. Only thing left is the center equalizer, but by this time my back was saying STOP!!!!!!!


Both axles out. My welder mentioned he might want them so I will give him a call tomorrow. I still need to remove the sumo springs - loosened the nuts, but need to find my strap wrench to complete the removal by loosing up the top portion so the brackets can move apart. From what I can tell there is no wear on the rubber.

Bushings - some good and some totally gone. Even though I greased before leaving for home in Alaska most were pretty dry. Shackles show minor wear in the hole enlargement. Glad I have the HD to put back.

Tomorrow I will remove the EZ-Flex, try and clean everything up, and take measurements for the wheel well armor (possibly cut templates) and get it ordered. Then study what to do on the water tank to keep it from moving. With the axles out I have free range under the trailer on my creeper. The cribbing is rock solid too.

More later

Keith

[Country Campers]

Keith,

When you install the new wet bolts use your fingers to rotate the bolt and "feel" the serrations in the spring hanger with the bolt. When you feel them engage this is the position you want to install them. Reason for this is if you try to make new serrations in the hanger you may make the hole too big and the serrations will not hold. Just a helpful tip hopefully.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Keith,

When you install the new wet bolts use your fingers to rotate the bolt and "feel" the serrations in the spring hanger with the bolt. When you feel them engage this is the position you want to install them. Reason for this is if you try to make new serrations in the hanger you may make the hole too big and the serrations will not hold. Just a helpful tip hopefully.

Brian

Good advise there.

[Yoda]

Keith,

When you install the new wet bolts use your fingers to rotate the bolt and "feel" the serrations in the spring hanger with the bolt. When you feel them engage this is the position you want to install them. Reason for this is if you try to make new serrations in the hanger you may make the hole too big and the serrations will not hold. Just a helpful tip hopefully.

Brian

Thanks for the tip, but in this case I am reversing the connection so they will be making new groves. To install the X-Factor cross braces, nut needs to be on the inside, zerks to the outside, so in all locations it will be reversed from what I removed. I plan on using the ball joint press to fully set them before installing the nut. I will be marking the orientation of the grease hole too. And on edit I wont need to crawl under to grease

Keith

[JBill9694]

Thanks for the tip, but in this case I am reversing the connection so they will be making new groves. To install the X-Factor cross braces, nut needs to be on the inside, zerks to the outside, so in all locations it will be reversed from what I removed. I plan on using the ball joint press to fully set them before installing the nut. I will be marking the orientation of the grease hole too. And on edit I wont need to crawl under to grease

Keith

Just because it is so easy to state the obvious, putting the zerks on the outside will expose them to damage from road debris kicked up by the tires.

[Yoda]

Just because it is so easy to state the obvious, putting the zerks on the outside will expose them to damage from road debris kicked up by the tires.

John
in order to install the X-Factor cross members they haft to be on the outside per the instructions. The nut goes to the inside. So I will be installing the shackles the same way so everything is accessible from the outside where it is easy to get to. None of the existing bolts or shackles show any damage or wear. If they do get damaged easy to fix too. I may install protective caps on them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...DKIKX0DER&th=1

Morryde instructions.
https://www.morryde.com/wp-content/u...structions.pdf

[Madonnell]

in order to install the X-Factor cross members they haft to be on the outside per the instructions. The nut goes to the inside.

Don't have to be. I installed mine with zerks in, and could grease without much trouble. (and got rid of all that last week when I went to Roadmaster slipper springs - will update on that when I've driven some)

[Yoda]

OK - Good progress today. Got the new EZ- Flex housings in with teh X-Factor cross brace. That brace is a bear. Mine is the old 2 piece design. Just a bit awkward to work with by myself.

First step was to prelube the EZ -Flex and mark the wet bolt and verify it took grease. I then cleaned the hanger of old grease and dirt. PB Blaster worked well for that. Then I installed one of the units and got the wet bolt in, hooked up the grease gun and pumped in grease while spinning the bolt. This made sure the center bushing was fully full or grease all the way around. I then seated the wet bolt using the ball joint press. I set a socked over the zerk to protect it and pressed the wet bolt in. Took a bit of force as it was cutting new knurls.

I them pre-assembled the X-Factor with two bolts and set one end against the hanger (other end supported close to the other hanger on a garden stool) on the wet bolt and added the nut, and just tightened a bit. Then went to the other side, set the EZ-Fles as before, seated the wet bolt and , I could not get the x-Factor enough to get on the bolt, so back under , removed the bolts and tried to not have everything fall on my head. I got lucky DW was out washing her car (why it is raining now) and she got it hooked up so I could put the bolts back in.

I then got out the torque wrench, set it to 40 lbs and torqued the two end wet bolt home. Once that was don torqued the 8 X-Factor bolts to 40 ft/lbs too. I am going to recheck my torque wrench as it seemed too easy to get there. This is the center hanger and it did not bow much, so I am happy with the alignment


Curb side


Street side. The garden stool I used to hold up the X-Factor is there. The real Bear was getting the top strap in. The interference locking nut was very difficult to tighten. I will recheck everything tomorrow before moving on

Now for the front and back hangers I need to drill 1 hole for the X-Factor top brace. I think I can use that hole to hold the X factor in place while I swing the spring into position and put in the wet bolt

Now out to the hot tub

Keith

[Yoda]

Well so far so good today.

After fighting with the X-Factor cross brace yesterday and knowing I needed to drill two hole for each brace I decided to try something different and install the brace top straps to hold it in place while setting the spring eyes and seating the wet bolt later.

Again using the stool I set the cross brace and slid it apart. Using a wet bolt set from the back side I made sure the hole lined up, then used zip ties on bot ends to keep it from turning.


I then worked one end at a time drilling the hole and snugging up the top brace, Bolt through the hole is the far bolt as my hanger widen towards the rear. Doing this held the other side steady so the second hole could be drilled. Once this was done I loosely set the cross member bolts that I will tighten later once the spring eyes are in place and torques to specification.

From yesterday



In theses two photos the wet bolt holding the EZ-Fles has been torqued to specification along with the top straps. Cross member bolts were torqued last. There is very little bowing on the center hanger as can be seen. Back side is totally straight.

Hope this is helpful to others?

Now on to the front X-Factor and then the axles

Update - Front X-Factor is 80% in place. All holes drilled and one side snug. Rain interrupted the other side. Needed a break anyway

Keith