Reflection 220RK 6K axle replacement - step by step

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Just FYI, I didn't fasten my cribbing together with screws or anything. I let the trailer and gravity do the work.

[Jlawles2]

Yoda You can always try using something like an old ratchet strap to secure the blocks together vs lag screws. Just fix the strap to the sides. Ideally metal banding material would be the best, it's just so hard that you have to punch it IIRC because it eats drill bits. The other option would be to use the cross layers in 2X6 and screw through those at an angle into the landscape timbers.

[Yoda]

Thanks folks. The drive is at a 1% slope so I don't want any chance of the timbers shifting. I also plan instead of the truck to use my tractor with the coupler and use it as a dead man. I can also use it to set the two front cribs easily - just lift up and place them. I want the ones up front to prevent any adverse loading to the front landing gear. Ill cut all the bards I have today and see how I stand. When done they will be easy to take apart, or just store them for any future use. Yesterday I also found several other wood sources I can use - just need to take a few thing apart that I don't use anymore.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Don't forget if you have the stacking lego blocks they can be used in conjunction with your boards. I have 2 sets which equals about 1' of height when locked. If not locked but stuck between other boards, I think each layer is 1.5" then as you get the interlock portion.

[Jlawles2]

So I climbed out of the hole and came up with this plan for building block piles. no angled screws.


You build several sets of the landscape timbers / 2X. Then paying them 2X down, put the next stack on top with the 2X and the Landscape from the previous parallel. Screw through the 2X into the landscape. continue until necessary height is reached.

Not that is a nominal 12" length for all components.

[Yoda]

So I climbed out of the hole and came up with this plan for building block piles. no angled screws.


You build several sets of the landscape timbers / 2X. Then paying them 2X down, put the next stack on top with the 2X and the Landscape from the previous parallel. Screw through the 2X into the landscape. continue until necessary height is reached.

Not that is a nominal 12" length for all components.

[JBill9694]

Being a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I would still toenail screws in. Doesn't take long and will make it much easier to move the stack around, not to mention the horizontal stability in case things aren't perfectly level, or something goes bump.

[Jlawles2]

Being a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I would still toenail screws in. Doesn't take long and will make it much easier to move the stack around, not to mention the horizontal stability in case things aren't perfectly level, or something goes bump.

John, I was thinking to use the 2X as the binder. When it's across the landscape you put screws down into those and when it's parallel you put screws up into those. I agree the stack should be screwed together for numerous reasons.

[Yoda]

Made progress today. Build 12 by 16 cribbing and 12 by 12 cribbing based on the materials I had. Weather warmed up and I got a lot of cutting done.
Lets just say "some assembly required". Box of screws buried under the top 12" pile. Given the weather I set up on the deck. DW is OK so far. Cat not so much - Her pink food dish in the background.


Whats nice by building the 12 by 12 cribbing my waste pile is minimal. But it wont go to waist. I plan to use to to build a platform on the dolly in the top picture to hold the axles in thier center leaving the ends free to jack., Both in removal and install.

Once the old axles are out of the way I plan to get the wiring protected, check out the brake wiring chafing (and a bunch of other going through the same opening) and install the 2" rigid insulation and possibly the coroplast. Having free range under the trailer (sans axles) should make this somewhat easy - well I hope. I have a week of good weather, so I need to get my hiney in gear.

BTW that is an older Rigid compound miter saw and a Rigid mobile base. Has done well for me over the years. I also have all the batterys charged for the fun with screws tomorrow.

Keith

[Yoda]

Making progress.Two done and a third started. I need 6 total. I had to get 3 1/2" screws to work with the landscape timbers and pre-drill the 2X material to keep it from spiting.

Using 2 1/2" screws on the 2x material. Theses things area heavier than I expected, but that is a good thing. Need to make a HD run in the morning for some cheap 2x material. I saw they had some new bunks in today when I got the deck screws I needed. Building theses is getting pricey, but I know I will be safe. Once on the cribbing I do plan to lower the rear scissor jacks and lock in the SteadyFast, just for a bit more rigidly.

Jlawles2 Joseph your cribbing design is working well. Plenty of room for screws and to miss whats below on the next tier. Thanks

One board at a time
Keith

On edit
I am almost tempted to thake the one stack apart that does not use the landscape timbers (foreground) and redo it with the landscape timbers, I can get two plus out of the one stack of 2x material there. Save buying more 2x material. I'll sleep on it.

[Jlawles2]

Yoda Keith you probably have one of the strongest cribbing setups out there now. Just remember to make them short enough when finished to fit under the jacks of the trailer to help keep the stabilizer extension to a minimum thus decreasing movement.

I'm almost in your neck of the woods. Currently North of Meeker Colorado.

[Yoda]

Yoda Keith you probably have one of the strongest cribbing setups out there now. Just remember to make them short enough when finished to fit under the jacks of the trailer to help keep the stabilizer extension to a minimum thus decreasing movement.

I'm almost in your neck of the woods. Currently North of Meeker Colorado.

Thanks Joseph
I redid the stack using the landscape timbers. Made two out of one. Definitely lighter than the solid 2x4 one I had made. By switching to the landscape timbers all will be exactly the same height. Two more 12 x 12 to go, The height is 26", trailer frame is sitting at 24". I will need to jack the axles a bit to get the tires off, but otherwise I should be good and not be too high. This way I will be avoiding any shackle inversion..

And what are you doing near Meeker? Don't you know it can still freeze and snow there this time of year?

Safe travels. Off to HD for the last few timbers and 2x4's I need.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Those look a lot higher than I needed....you sure you are not going crazy high?

[Yoda]

Those look a lot higher than I needed....you sure you are not going crazy high?

Not from what I measured, but I will double check tomorrow morning. It's only a few deck screws to lower. I set them 2 inches higher than the frame height - not enough to lift the tires off the ground, but close. Ill try and post pictures of my measurements. Remember I upgraded for 15" to 16" tires. and went with a taller series if I remember right. About 1.5" over stock.
Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Not from what I measured, but I will double check tomorrow morning. It's only a few deck screws to lower. I set them 2 inches higher that the stuck height - not enough to lift the tires off the ground, but close. Ill try and post pictures of my measurements. Remember I upgraded for 15" to 16" tires. and went with a taller series if I remember right. About 1.5" over stock.
Keith

OK, maybe they just appear really tall to me or my memory has faded a tad since I did that job 10 or so years ago.