Reflection 220RK Frame Cracks

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Keith,

Since you will have the coroplast off, adding insulation and dividing the coroplast sheet into smaller sections is a good plan. (In my opinion). I did this on my Reflection (documented elsewhere on this forum). I used closed cell rigid foam and created opening panels below the gate valve area. Let me know if you can’t find this info.

Rob

[Yoda]

The rear most part of the coroplast is stapled to the bottom of the rear wall. My staples were rusted. I pulled them all out and used some stainless screws to reattach. I would wire tie everything up very securely, 20 miles does not sound like a lot but there are plenty of bad things that can happen under the rig in that short distance.

Brian

Thanks Brian

[Yoda]

Hi Keith,

Since you will have the coroplast off, adding insulation and dividing the coroplast sheet into smaller sections is a good plan. (In my opinion). I did this on my Reflection (documented elsewhere on this forum). I used closed cell rigid foam and created opening panels below the gate valve area. Let me know if you can’t find this info.

Rob

Thanks Rob - Ill take a look for it. I have my small impact driver charging up and first cup of coffee, Should make quick work. of getting it down today.

Keith

[Yoda]

Update
Took the trailer to the Bayfield 4 Corners Trailers. Jeremy spent about 1/2 hour going through the frame and came to the conclusion it is beyond his scope ( discovered 8 cracks including two I did not see) and recommended I take it to Farmington to the truck frame shop there as they are better suited to doing the type of repair I need.. I have a 3 pm appointment with those folks for an inspection. I have the belly fabric undone all along the frame and temp tied up with wire so they can look inside the frame.

Speaking of the chloroplast - It's getting pretty beat up. Do any of you know of sources for it and is there a better material out there. Once everything is done I am thinking about replacing it fully.

Keith

[Yoda]

Well just got back from the second frame inspection - this time by Largo Frame and Alignment of Farmington NM - they build springs too, but don't have US steel on hand.

The good news is the can fix it better than new, The found two factory welds that lacked penetration along with 8 or 9 cracks and need the belly chloroplast fully removed to get to the inside of the frame and cross members. he also talked about installing cross member backing plates and what they call fish scaling reinforcement ( angle bracing from flange to flange that reinforces the web) for the web along the entire frame. He is concerned that one of the hangers (curb side front) may have rolled the web near the flange, but there is foam in the way to see clearly. If it is he does have the proper tools to straighten and reinforce.

The bad news is the cost is $3 to $5K initial estimate, but they have worked directly with Lippert (LCI) before. So now the wait is for the estimate and communicating with Lippert and finding out what they might cover if anything. Largo Frame is currently booked out two months. He did say theses cracks would have shown up Alaska trip or not and based on the rust some were there before the Alaska trip.

They will also be quoting the custom axle/spring set up I want separately.

So tomorrow I will be cleaning the drive where I park the trailer so my creeper rolls freely and pull the rest of the belly and fully remove it. then the scraper coums out to remove and foam and sealant I can get off Lots of pictures to come.

I was also thinking of getting the crack die and spraying for additional cracks inside the frame. What die brand is good?

Thanks for the help folks

Keith

PS I got an email that GD has assigned a case number too and I should be hearing from the Retail Service Manager whoever that is after review of the information I passed on. Email was sent by Susan Bond. I guess that is good news too.

[howson]

Yoda -- 3-5K, yikes! I'm following along, just not commenting much since most of this discussion is way outside of what I know.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Well, progress...but sheesh expensive for a 2018 frame..not that the labour you were quoted is excessive..it's just that your trailer is a 2018!
And Susan Bond is an excellent person to work with IMO. Good at her job. She will put in a good effort for you.

[Yoda]

Well, progress...but sheesh expensive for a 2018 frame..not that the labour you were quoted is excessive..it's just that your trailer is a 2018!
And Susan Bond is an excellent person to work with IMO. Good at her job. She will put in a good effort for you.

Thanks

With 8 cracks at roughly 3 hours total per crack to strip paint, drill out, grind welds, gussets, plate reinforcing, (both sides) a dab of paint , and guessing at $150/hr for a certified welder your at $3,600. Now add in materials and I think they are in the ballpark. I too was shocked at first, but went back and search crack repair time. Some interesting reading. However when done I should have no further worries on the frame strength, and with the axle upgrade the axles either.

I am hoping Lippert steps up in some way as they made the frame, and after the inspection today some questionable welds on the gussets from the factory. Maybe Ill get lucky and GD may offer some help. I am not expecting anything, just hoping something might be covered, but anything helps.

SWMBO may want to go back to Homer during the right season,,,,,so there is hope. This time more research, She heard of a two day boat trip around all of the islands with an overnight lodge stay - some fishing included for me. I just need to decide do we fly or drive. I really want to drive that west access up 37 in good weather - this time more slowly

This has been a huge learning experience for me too. Inspecting and fixing bridge girders is a bit different than trailer frames. I am thankful to have all of you here helping.

More later

Keith

[TedS]

Update
Took the trailer to the Bayfield 4 Corners Trailers. Jeremy spent about 1/2 hour going through the frame and came to the conclusion it is beyond his scope ( discovered 8 cracks including two I did not see) and recommended I take it to Farmington to the truck frame shop there as they are better suited to doing the type of repair I need.. I have a 3 pm appointment with those folks for an inspection. I have the belly fabric undone all along the frame and temp tied up with wire so they can look inside the frame.

Speaking of the chloroplast - It's getting pretty beat up. Do any of you know of sources for it and is there a better material out there. Once everything is done I am thinking about replacing it fully.

Keith

Searching 'coroplast' got a RecPro hit for corrugated poly. Don't know the quality.
https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Corrug...a-748584632287

[Yoda]

Searching 'coroplast' got a RecPro hit for corrugated poly. Don't know the quality.
https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Corrug...a-748584632287

Thanks Ted
Searches don't work so well when I cant spell it correctly

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

coroplast is the same thing lots of election signage is made out of. You have midterm elections shortly. Go collect up the signs the day after the election...lol

FYI, coroplast is just one brand name of corrugated poly. Basically cardboard made out of plastic. The coroplast on my previous 2006 5'er held up well and still looked good when I traded it in on the 303 in 2020....surprised yours is beat already.

[Yoda]

coroplast is the same thing lots of election signage is made out of. You have midterm elections shortly. Go collect up the signs the day after the election...lol

FYI, coroplast is just one brand name of corrugated poly. Basically cardboard made out of plastic. The coroplast on my previous 2006 5'er held up well and still looked good when I traded it in on the 303 in 2020....surprised yours is beat already.

Overall it not beat up, but as I have undone portions of it several times with my modifications, the edges are tearing out at the screw holes. I need to find the metal strapping the newer models are using - seems like a more secure install.

RecPro seem to have one with the foil bonded to one side.Its a honeycomb (think Gold Ball dimples) pattern. Most of the good material is 1/8 thick.but many are thinner, so I need to watch for that. Ill take a picture of mine once down. There was also a U-Tube video of a person bonding thin blanket insulation (the wide sealed rolls used in metal buildings). I may look into that - seems simpler than foam board.

I was thinking of starting a separate thread on my findings - thoughts on that?

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I need to find the metal strapping the newer models are using - seems like a more secure install.

I used a product called All Round. You can buy it in plain steel, galvanized, stainless, and copper. Basically a long strip of metal with a bunch of holes.
Interesting you say 'newer' models. It was used on my 2006 Titanium 5th wheel.

[Yoda]

I used a product called All Round. You can buy it in plain steel, galvanized, stainless, and copper. Basically a long strip of metal with a bunch of holes.
Interesting you say 'newer' models. It was used on my 2006 Titanium 5th wheel.

Is this what your talking about? https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dah...25-/1000115950
"
If so that not what I meant. What I am looking for is roughly 1/2" wide by maybe 1/8 thick ribbed metal strips that seem to grip the coroplast when tightened up. I don't think it is pre-drilled either. I have some across the very front of the coroplast, but its the older style. Ill try and get a picture tomorrow. I think the strapping is specifically made for holding the coroplast in place on RV's and elsewhere.

Thanks for the help though.

Keith

Edit This is what I have - the newer stye has more rib's, but this will work if I cam find it.

[plastictires]

This happened to me - longitudinal cracks in the web part of the I-Beam near the spring hangers. Lippert put me through the same process as you. They ended up paying for repairs - about $1,000.

The shop I went to boxed the frame from behind the rearmost spring hanger to ahead of the foremost spring hanger (maybe 7 or 8 feet). They basically put a c-channel steel reinforcement plate inside the I-Beam and welded it up. Oddly enough Lippert sells such a reinforcement bracket bit it is only about 24" long.

The shop said they see this a lot and say it was from flexing when turning tight corners. I think a MorRyde X-Factor cross brace would have prevented it if I had put one on the front and rear spring hangers. I had one in the middle from when I put on their SRE4000 suspension. So now I'm getting MorRyde's IS.