Reflection 220RK Frame Cracks

[howson]

So now I'm getting MorRyde's IS.

If you'd like the benefit of my experience with MORryde's IS installation, read https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ts-post-1-of-3

Have a cup of coffee or other favorite brew on hand before starting. (Spoiler alert: I'd definitely get it again, but armed with information that would result in a better installation.)

Howard

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Is this what your talking about? https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dah...25-/1000115950
"
If so that not what I meant. What I am looking for is roughly 1/2" wide by maybe 1/8 thick ribbed metal strips that seem to grip the coroplast when tightened up. I don't think it is pre-drilled either. I have some across the very front of the coroplast, but its the older style. Ill try and get a picture tomorrow. I think the strapping is specifically made for holding the coroplast in place on RV's and elsewhere.

Thanks for the help though.

Keith

Edit This is what I have - the newer stye has more rib's, but this will work if I cam find it.

Ah ok. I thought you were looking to add metal strip. Our 2021 Reflection has none of that...just screws..no strapping of any kind. So not sure about the "newer style..."

[Yoda]

I am Beat Up. Coroplast is down - what a pain every cut and notch hung up somewhere coming out - especially on the suspension parts.

BUT - That's not the half of it. I found the black tank is sagging more than it did (just a little, but the fresh water tank was bulging down even more. I was able to push it up and it popped back to its original form. Its secure, but I think I will need some cross strapping or possibly thin/wide C-channel to keep it from bulging and sagging down again. I am thinking two. However I discovered it will slide back and forth 4" to 6" and the only thing that stops is is the plumbing and wiring. BTW the opening in the center is for reinforcement and to prevent the sagging. I see minor signs of plastic distress there. It also calms the sloshing somewhat. So I need to think about how to better secure it before the new belly goes in.

I have C-channels both sides I can attach the strapping too, but one side is sloped the other is a cross member with the holding Chanel welded on a slope. So I need to think about some wedges under the strapping to keep the tank level. To keep it from sliding side to side I think I can add some stop blocks to the outlet side. I need to be careful not to create wear points.

I also found the removable cross member for the fresh water tank loose.

There are two bolts that screw through the frame (same size that holds the coroplast up) on each end so it can be removed for tank maintenance. All four were loose by several rotations. On was very loose. As this cross member is located very near the front hanger that the web flexing on both sides caused them to loosen. Probably good that support was there. I have the Morryde X-Factor braces sitting in the living room waiting to go it. They should help solve this issue along with stiffening and reinforcing the frame in this area.

You can also see how much the tank will slide from side to side roughly 4" to 6". Fortunately the water pluming is flexible

I have some better ideas for insulating now - just need to figure a way to support it between cross members. The only other issue is finding minor wire chafing where it cross through or over the cross members. Need to source out some larger loom in small quantity . I have some old CPAP tubing that should be perfect. Just need to split it without cutting myself. Otherwise a few wraps of electrical tape should do. Good news is comparing pictures from before I think everything else looks good.

Ill get full photos of everything and post then for reference for others with my model or similar. Ill also document the tanks sizes. While its down I will also be re-routing some of the tanks pull cables to ease the tight bends.

On a good note - withe coroplast down the welder should have good access to both sides of the cracks. All that's left now is to clean the sealant off the frame and tie everything up for travel and re secure the propane lines.

Now time to relax and enjoy a stiff cold gin. I also need to contemplate how I am going to install the new coroplast next spring. probably from the rear forward just as the factory did it. Rain and possibly snow tonight and tomorrow, so time to think.

Still waiting on a crack repair estimate - I'll call tomorrow and see if they have made progress.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

You better stop checking things too closely....your gin bill will get too high...

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I also need to contemplate how I am going to install the new coroplast next spring. probably from the rear forward just as the factory did it. Rain and possibly snow tonight and tomorrow, so time to think.

Two pieces. Split just forward of the axles..imo.

[Jlawles2]

Yoda Keith, to split the CPAP tube, take 2 pcs of wood and screw them together then clamp them in a vise. Drill through the interface between the 2 with a bit slightly larger then the OD of the tube. Pull the rig apart and place a utility knife blade sticking up enough to go through the wall of the tube taking in account any difference in the hole to tube size. Put it all back tougher and in the vise, then shove the tube through / pull through. (AVOID THE URGE TO PUT YOUR FINGER THROUGH THE HOLE TO SEE HOW FAR THE TUBE HAS TO GO). Picked this trick up watching a car show on TV or youtube several years ago.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

The only other issue is finding minor wire chafing where it cross through or over the cross members. Need to source out some larger loom in small quantity .

I like this stuff ......or similar. Lots of brands for this.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010656

[TedS]

Yoda, you might want to consider wood 2x crossmembers between the chassis frame like joists to which to attach the coroplast instead of external supports. Just a thought since the coroplast is down and the belly open.

[Yoda]

You better stop checking things too closely....your gin bill will get too high...

PS - I was out of Gin so I had to settle for USA made Vodka....just not the same. I mix it with a lime seltzer.

[Yoda]

Yoda Keith, to split the CPAP tube, take 2 pcs of wood and screw them together then clamp them in a vise. Drill through the interface between the 2 with a bit slightly larger then the OD of the tube. Pull the rig apart and place a utility knife blade sticking up enough to go through the wall of the tube taking in account any difference in the hole to tube size. Put it all back tougher and in the vise, then shove the tube through / pull through. (AVOID THE URGE TO PUT YOUR FINGER THROUGH THE HOLE TO SEE HOW FAR THE TUBE HAS TO GO). Picked this trick up watching a car show on TV or youtube several years ago.

Sweet
Thanks for the tip Joseph
Keith

[Yoda]

Yoda, you might want to consider wood 2x crossmembers between the chassis frame like joists to which to attach the coroplast instead of external supports. Just a thought since the coroplast is down and the belly open.

I had not thought of that. I'll give that some thought. Meanwhile Monday I will check with my local metals shop and see what small C-channel they have or other bar stock (angle iron, aluminum shapes, etc.).. I have time to explore lots of possibility's. Unfortunately I don't have lots of places to shop metal stock here in Durango. The upside is everyone knows what the others have and give referrals.

As I am going with new Coroplast ( what I took down was getting very brittle and tore a lot during the removal), I am thinking of having the welder fill all the holes he finds in the lower flange and just start new.

Thoughts?

Thanks everyone for the help.
Keith
On Edit RecPro is sending me free samples of what they offer. Ill take pictures and post when they arrive.

[Jlawles2]

Yoda Leave the holes. Convert them to threaded nut zerts (rivet nuts). This is to minimize heat input to the flanges which may cause warping.

these thingies. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/apt-rn14

[Yoda]

Yoda Leave the holes. Convert them to threaded nut zerts (rivet nuts). This is to minimize heat input to the flanges which may cause warping.

these thingies. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/apt-rn14

I had not thought of the heat issue. I can use my plus-nuts that I already have. I was thinking of the issues of lining up with them with the new coroplast, But then I thought about the punch owl that I have, which should work to find the holes.

Thanks
Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I had not thought of the heat issue. I can use my plus-nuts that I already have. I was thinking of the issues of lining up with them with the new coroplast, But then I thought about the punch owl that I have, which should work to find the holes.

Thanks
Keith

You're not going to be to buy any new tools thinking like that!

As for a cross member, consider uni-strut. If you weld it on facing down, you can use the spring nuts that uni-strut is made to accommodate. Then if you make a joint there for a two piece coroplast underbelly, you could use std 1/4" bolts. If you are going with the one piece underbelly, it would not work as well. Just something else to think about.
I like Joseph's rivnut idea. I think I might steal that one. I wonder if the slightly larger holes to accommodate the rivnut would weaken the flange?

[Cate&Rob]

If you want to go to bolts instead of screws to fasten the coroplast, you can just drill out the screw holes and thread them directly in the frame. No need to drill larger for rivnuts. A 1/4-20 tap and stainless steel button head bolts and fender washers work well . . . ask me how I know this .

Rob